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Highlights from the Family Winemakers Tasting, San Francisco 2010

Tasting Event

Written by Fred Swan

Created on Sunday, 29 August 2010 08:00

The Family Winemakers of California held their annual San Francisco tasting this past weekend (August 22-23, 2010) at Fort Mason. I attended both days and spent almost ten hours tasting new releases and talking with winemakers and proprietors. There were literally thousands of wines available to try. My focus was on trying things from wineries I wasn't very familiar with and completely new offerings from some of my favorite producers.

I tasted a ridiculous amount of wines, well over 170, but still only a small portion of what was available. Don't assume the worst for wines I don't mention. Also be aware that the tasting conditions at these mass tastings aren't scientific, so your experience with the wines I recommend may differ from mine. Over time, I will try to bring many of the better ones in for blind tasting in a controlled environment.

C.G. Di Arie was a new “discovery” for me, though they are likely well-known to those of you who spend time at wineries in the Sierra Foothills. They are based near the town of Mt. Aukum in the Shenandoah Valley, about 90 minutes east of Sacramento. The proprietors, Chaim and Elisheva Gur-Arieh have a 209 acre estate there, 47 of which are under vine. They’ve got at least 11 varieties planted and produce up to 15,000 cases per year.

As do many wineries with a wine club focus, C. G. Di Arie produces a lot of different wines (thirty-one in this case). Often that can lead to mediocrity. It’s really hard to produce many different wines and keep quality high. However, I tasted eight of the C. G. Di Arie wines on Sunday and can give seven of them solid recommendations. (The lone outlier was good, but not exceptional.) That’s an impressive showing. I was also pleased by the overall winemaking style: elegant, varietally correct and very moderate in alcohol and application of oak. I’m looking forward to visiting their winery, which includes two art galleries and a great view from their 1,700 foot elevation, soon so I can try more of the wines. Here are the ones I recommend for now:
2009 C. G. Di Arie Rosé Di Arie, Sierra Foothills - $18

2009 C. G. Di Arie Sauvignon Blanc, Shenandoah Valley - $18 (intentionally and successfully modeled after the New Zealand style, fresh and clean)
2007 C. G. Di Arie Barbera, Sierra Foothills - $24 (more restrained than most California Barberas)
2008 C. G. Di Arie Primitivo Block #4, Shenandoah Valley - $25
2006 C. G. Di Arie Zinfandel Southern Exposure - $35 (fruit sourced from Terry Harvey’s vineyard which is the old Zinfandel Vineyard in North America)
2007 C. G. Di Arie Petite Sirah, Estate Grown - $30 (would have been among the top 10 had it been poured at the P.S. I Love You event)
2006 C. G. Di Arie Syrah, Amador County - $20 (fruit-centric, but gently so)

There were a number of other wineries whose wines I don't recall having tasted previously but am now happy to recommend:
2006 Bella Luna Winery Estate Riserva Bellicaia, Paso Robles (70% Cabernet, 30% Sangiovese) - $45, Recommended
2007 Bixler Vineyards Red Blend (Syrah, Merlot and Petite Sirah from the California delta) - $12, Recommended
2006 Branham Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley - $40. Recommended
2009 Clouds Rest Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - Recommended

2008 Clouds Rest Vineyards Chardonnay Mendocino - Recommended

2008 Clouds Rest Vineyards Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - Highly Recommended

2005 Clouds Rest Vineyards Pinot Noir - Very Highly Recommended

2008 Field Recordings Wines Petite Sirah Red Cedar Vineyard, Paso Robles - $30, Recommended
2008 Field Recordings Wines Chardonnay Sarmento Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands - $18, Recommended
2008 Field Recordings Wines “Fiction” (Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Tannat) - $17, Highly Recommended

2008 Field Recordings Wines “Chorus Effect” Koligian Vineyard, Paso Robles (red Bordeaux varietals plus Tannat) - $27, Recommended

2005 Korbin Kameron Cabernet Sauvignon - $40, Highly Recommended

2006 Korbin Kameron Merlot Sonoma Mountain - $NA, Recommended

2006 Korbin Kameron Kristin Cuvee - $55, Recommended

2006 Olin Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County - $20, Recommended
2006 Owl Ridge Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County - $24, Recommended

2005 Owl Ridge Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Vineyard Select - $24, Highly Recommended

2005 Owl Ridge Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Passalacqua Vineyard Dry Creek Valley - $48, Highly Recommended

2008 PB Hein Chardonnay Napa Valley (Carneros) - $NA, Highly Recommended

2005 PB Hein Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley - $40, Recommended

2007 PB Hein "Trailblazer" Red Blend (Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel) - $NA, Highly Recommended

2006 PB Hein Syrah Suisun Vineyard - $17, Recommended
2008 Peter Paul Wines Pinot Noir Russian River Valley - $32, Recommended

2008 Peter Paul Wines Chardonnay Bacigalupi Vineyard Russian River - $38, Highly Recommended

2008 Peter Paul Wines Pinot Noir Mill Station Rd. Russian River Valley - $42, Highly Recommended
2007 Pierce Ranch Vineyards Petite Sirah - $NA, Recommended

2006 Portfolio Limited Edition Cabernet Sauvignon - $125, Highly Recommended
2007 Respite Wines Cabernet Sauvignon - $48, Highly Recommended2007 Sequum Zinfandel - $30, Highly Recommended

2006 Sequum Cabernet Sauvignon Kidd Ranch Napa Valley - $60, Highly Recommended
2007 Sequum Cabernet Sauvignon - $40, Recommended
2007 Sequum Zinfandel - $TBD, Highly Recommended
2007 TR Elliott Pinot Noir "Questa" Russian River Valley- $40, Highly Recommended

2006 TR Elliott Pinot Noir "Burgonet" Russian River Valley - $38, Recommended

2006 Violet-Green Winery Syrah Alder Springs Vineyard Mendocino - $NA, Highly Recommended

2006 Violet-Green Winery Cabernet Franc Alder Springs Vineyard Mendocino - $29, Recommended 

2007 Violet-Green Winery Cabernet Franc Alder Springs Vineyard Mendocino - $29, Highly Recommended

2008 Voss Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - $20, Recommended

2006 Wallis Family Estate Cabernet Sauvignon - $85, Highly Recommended
2007 Wallis Family Estate Cabernet Sauvignon - $85, Highly Recommended

Two of the best wines at the tasting were not new releases. In fact, one of them isn’t even from this decade. Calera was pouring two wines from their library along with recent releases. Calera’s Pinot Noir is widely considered to be among the most age-worthy in California. The 1997 and 2000 vintages of Calera Mills Vineyard Mt. Harlan Pinot Noir strongly supported that view — both were excellent. Fortunately for you, these library wines weren’t just being poured for as references for aging potential. The winery has released a number of bottles from their library for sale now and the 2000 appears to be available. [Great palates think alike. You can also read about the 1997 Calera Mills Vineyard Mt. Harlan Pinot at Vinography.]

Don’t overlook the new wines from Calera though. The eight I tasted were all very good:
2009 Calera Viognier, Central Coast - $16, Recommended

2009 Calera Viognier, Mt. Harlan - $30, Highly Recommended
2009 Calera Chardonnay Central Coast - $16, Recommended
2009 Calera Chardonnay Mt. Harlan - $28, Highly Recommended
2008 Calera Pinot Noir Central Coast - $24, Highly Recommended

2007 Calera Pinot Noir de Villiers Vineyard Mt Harlan - $35, Highly Recommended
2007 Calera Pinot Noir Ryan Vineyard Mt Harlan - $40, Highly Recommended
2007 Calera Pinot Noir Mills Vineyard Mt Harlan - $45, Highly Recommended

Without respect to vintage or winery history, here are the best of the wines, by varietal, that I tried at the 2010 Family Winemakers Tasting:
White Wines
Chardonnay
2008 Clouds Rest Vineyards Chardonnay Mendocino - $NA, Recommended

2008 Dunstan Chardonnay - $40, Highly Recommended

2008 Field Recordings Wines Chardonnay Sarmento Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands - $18, Recommended

2009 Grey Stack Chardonnay - $NA, Highly Recommended

2008 PB Hein Chardonnay Napa Valley (Carneros) - $NA, Highly Recommended
2008 Peter Paul Wines Chardonnay Bacigalupi Vineyard Russian River - $38, Highly Recommended

Sauvignon Blanc
2009 Grey Stack Sauvignon Blanc - $NA, Highly Recommended

2009 Orin Swift Cellars Sauvignon Blanc - $25, Highly Recommended
2008 Petroni Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc - $22, Highly Recommended

Red Wines
Cabernet Sauvignon/Bordeaux Blends
2007 Carter Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Coliseum Block - $75, Very Highly Recommended
2006 Cavus Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - $NA, Highly Recommended

2005 Korbin Kameron Cabernet Sauvignon - $40, Highly Recommended
2007 Mauritson “Bordeaux Blend” Buck Pasture - $50, Highly Recommended

2007 Orin Swift Cellars Papillon - $55, Very Highly Recommended
2005 Owl Ridge Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Vineyard Select - $24, Highly Recommended

2005 Owl Ridge Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Passalacqua Vineyard Dry Creek Valley - $48, Highly Recommended
2006 Pahlmeyer Cabernet Sauvignon - $105, Highly Recommended

2006 Petroni Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - $70, Highly Recommended
2006 Portfolio Limited Edition Cabernet Sauvignon - $125, Highly Recommended
2007 Respite Wines Cabernet Sauvignon - $48, Highly Recommended

2006 Sequum Cabernet Sauvignon Kidd Ranch Napa Valley - $60, Highly Recommended
2007 Vellum Cabernet Sauvignon - $56, Highly Recommended

2007 Violet-Green Winery Cabernet Franc Alder Springs Vineyard Mendocino - $29, Highly Recommended

2006 Wallis Family Estate Cabernet Sauvignon - $85, Highly Recommended
2007 Wallis Family Estate Cabernet Sauvignon - $85, Highly Recommended

Grenache
2007 Grey Stack Grenache - $35, Highly Recommended

Merlot
2008 Bevan Cellars Merlot - ~$70, Highly Recommended

2005 Carrefour Vineyards Merlot - $28, Highly Recommended

Petite Sirah
2007 C. G. Di Arie Petite Sirah, Estate Grown - $30, Recommended
2008 Field Recordings Wines Petite Sirah Red Cedar Vineyard, Paso Robles - $30, Recommended

Pinot Noir
2007 Black Kite Cellars Pinot Noir Stony Terrace, Anderson Valley - ~$70, Very Highly Recommended
2009 Black Kite Cellars Pinot Noir Stony Terrace, Anderson Valley (just bottled on August 6) - $TBD, Highly Recommended
2006 Carrefour Vineyards Pinot Noir (Truchard Vineyard, Carneros) - $33, Highly Recommended
2008 Clouds Rest Vineyards Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - Highly Recommended

2005 Clouds Rest Vineyards Pinot Noir - Very Highly Recommended
2007 Sand Hill at Durell Vineyard Pinot Noir - $50, Very Highly Recommended
2008 Dunstan Pinot Noir - $50, Highly Recommended

2009 Grey Stack Pinot Noir Bennett Valley - $28, Highly Recommended

2007 Hanzell Vineyards Pinot Noir Estate - $95, Highly Recommended
2006 Pahlmyer Jayson Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - $45, Highly Recommended

2008 Peter Paul Wines Pinot Noir Mill Station Rd. Russian River Valley - $42, Highly Recommended
2007 TR Elliott Pinot Noir Questa - $40, Highly Recommended

Syrah
2007 Canihan Family Cellars Syrah Exuberance Reserved - $49, Highly Recommended
2007 Grey Stack Syrah - Highly Recommended
2008 Grey Stack Syrah - Highly Recommended
2007 Grey Stack Syrah “The Narcissist” - Very Highly Recommended
2007 PB Hein "Trailblazer" Red Blend (Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel) - $NA, Highly Recommended
2007 Red Car Trolley Syrah "Tomorrowland" - $NA, Highly Recommended
2006 Violet-Green Winery Syrah Alder Springs Vineyard - $NA, Highly Recommended
2007 Westerhold Family Vineyards Syrah - $42, Very Highly Recommended

2008 Westerhold Family Vineyards Syrah (barrel sample) - $TBD, Highly Recommended

Zinfandel
2008 Field Recordings Wines “Fiction” (Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Tannat) - $17, Highly Recommended
2007 Sequum Zinfandel - $TBD, Highly Recommended

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Notes from the Karen Culler Wines Tasting at Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant

Tasting Event

Written by Fred Swan

Created on Thursday, 17 June 2010 22:19

The Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant in San Francisco’s Ferry Building consistently offers interesting and enjoyable wine tasting events. While there’s a natural, and laudable, emphasis on local wineries, plenty of the events are focused on imports as well. Either the winemaker or winery owner is present at each of the events to go from table to table greeting people and talking about the wines. You should definitely try to attend some of these tastings, if you haven’t done so already.

Last night’s tasting was focused on wines made by Karen Culler. Ms. Culler’s first winemaking experiences were as a child, destemming grapes for her father and grandfather who were home winemakers in Ohio. She went on to get a degree in Botany and Agronomy from Ohio State University and then, after spending a year working at Columbia Winery in Washington, headed to U.C. Davis where she earned a Master’s Degree in Viticulture and Enology. After getting her Master’s, she went to work at Robert Mondavi Winery for two years and then moved to Vichon Winery which was also owned by Mondavi. During her tenth year at Vichon, their line of Napa Valley wines was discontinued. So, in 1997, Karen Culler set off on her own, founding Culler Wines.

Today, Karen Culler makes just under 1,000 cases of wine for her own labels, Culler Wines and Casaeda, and serves as winemaker for several other Napa Valley labels including Ladera, Wolf Family, Renteria and Rivera. Yesterday’s tasting included five wines, though I managed to sneak a taste of a sixth. Ms. Culler was on hand to talk about the wines, wineries and vineyards, as were Jane and Doug Wolf of Wolf Family Vineyards and that company’s general manager, Melinda Kearney. All of the wines were very good. My tasting notes are below.

2006 Culler La Palette Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, $50
Almost opaque ruby, leaning to purple with a narrow pale rim and colorless legs, this wine has an inviting nose of black currant, brown spice and wood. The body is medium plus as are the slightly powdery tannins which kick in at mid palate. Excellent Cabernet Sauvignon flavors of black currant, black cherry, dark chocolate, cedar and spice carry through the generous finish along with the tannins and some warming alcohol. 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot, all from Alexander Ranch. Decant to drink now or hold through 2016. Highly Recommended.

2006 Culler Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain Napa Valley, $65
Bright and nearly opaque ruby with a thin pale rim and colorless legs. The medium plus nose entices with aromas of dusty black currant, dark chocolate powder and herb. The palate is rich and almost creamy with talc-like tannins and bold flavors of black currant, briary blackberry, dark chocolate, dried leaves and mint. The tannins are prominent but well balanced by the fruit and acidity. The finish is long. A structured wine that will age well but is delicious now. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Ladera Vineyard. Aged 20 months in 50% new French oak. Just 65 cases were made. Drink now through 2020. Very Highly Recommended.

2007 Casaeda Syrah Sonoma, $20
This is another bright, nearly opaque ruby purple wine with a thin pale rim, but it’s legs are heavily pigmented. The nose announces “Syrah” with notes of black pepper, plum, prune, game and leather. The palate is chewy and structured yet smooth and brimming with black pepper, spicy blackberry, chocolate and espresso. There’s enough acidity to complement braised or seared meat but also a very long finish which you might like to savor on it’s own. 78% Sonoma Coast Syrah and 22% Howell Mountain Malbec. A remarkable deal at just $20. 234 cases were made. Drink now through 2015. Highly Recommended.

2007 Wolf Family Cabernet Sauvignon Phaedrus Napa Valley, $40
Bright ruby and fully opaque with a narrow pale rim and colorless legs. The nose is medium plus with focused black currant and currant leaf. The palate exhibits a deft balance of the medium plus tannins and alcohol with prominent, winning flavors of black currant, cocoa powder, black cherry and coffee. A blend of Malbec, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. 524 cases produced. Drink now through 2015. Highly Recommended.

2006 Wolf Family Cabernet Franc Napa Valley, $60
Bright, opaque ruby with a thin pale rim and colorless legs. Alluring black currant on the nose with more cassis and dark cherry with coffee on the palate. Beautifully textured with lightly chewy tannins, mouthwatering acidity and a long finish. 95% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon from the estate vineyard that lies in St. Helena between Dean & DeLuca and the hills. 122 cases made. Drink now through 2020. Very Highly Recommended.

2009 Culler Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley, $NA
Clear and bright, light lemon in color, this is not one of those Sauvignon Blancs that is trying to offer Chardonnay body, but neither is it in your face with tart, aggressive fruit. It is medium minus in body and does lean toward high acidity but remains soft and pretty on the palate. Gentle aromas and flavors of stone fruit with a light touch of vanilla. Drink now through 2011. Recommended.

Disclosures: I paid for my tasting samples, except for the Sauvignon Blanc which was poured for me by the distributor who had opened it for some trade folks with whom I shared my table. These wines were not tasted blind.

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This article is original to NorCalWine.com. Copyright 2010 NorCal Wine. All rights reserved.

Highlights from the 2010 Rhone Rangers Grand Tasting

Tasting Event

Written by Fred Swan

Created on Tuesday, 30 March 2010 01:23

The Rhone Rangers Grand Tasting is always a good time. The great diversity of wine varietals is interesting and helps prevent palate fatigue. There are a large number of wines and wineries, more than anyone could taste in even a full day, but not such a huge number that you feel overwhelmed or have to wander through multiple halls. Attendees, both wineries and tasters, are friendly. And, while the tastings draw a big crowd, the hall isn’t so crowded that you get claustrophobic.

This year’s Rhone Rangers Grand Tasting was made even more interesting by the large number of non-wine vendors. Most of the companies were offering some sort of food that might go well with the wine. The Girl and the Fig restaurant served up some good duck cassoulet. Others had chocolates, flavored crackers, bread, paté, olive oil, etc. The SanTasti people had their palate-cleansing water and Aidells was there with sausage. There were also a few tables with wine bags, corkscrews. Soirée demonstrated their wine aerators.

One table that was not a hit with winemakers offered flavored water from ICIO. I didn’t taste the water myself, so I can’t make any comments on it’s quality, pro or con. What had the winemakers up in arms were some of the flavors and their potency. The peppermint was particularly reviled for it’s capacity to overwhelm the palate and make the wines taste lousy. I overheard one woman (a trade tasting attendee) say that it smelled and tasted like mouthwash. Perhaps it would have been better to give the water to people as refresher when they left the building rather than handing it out in the middle of the hall.

There were just under 100 wineries in attendance at the 2010 Rhone Rangers Grand Tasting. Most were from California, but there were a handful from Oregon, two from Washington and one from Idaho. Of course, I wasn’t able to taste every wine. I did make a valiant attempt to do so for the whites and managed to taste pretty much every white wine from Northern California wineries as well as a few from farther south and all of the ones from Oregon. That alone took about two-and-a-half hours, moving at a fast pace. After taking a brief break to wolf down a sandwich, there wasn’t much time left to sample the red wines. So, for those, I went to a few specific wineries that I know well in an attempt to get a sense for how the new releases compare to those in recent years.

Overall, the quality of these Rhone-varietal wines was very good. My general sense, and this was reinforced by other tasters and winemakers with whom I spoke, is that acidity, minerality and restraint are making a comeback. Excessive extraction, oak and alcohol levels are much less common. Naturally, these comments are relative to past California vintages. The majority of the wines are still heavier, fruitier and more potent than typical wines from the Northern Rhone in France.

Having tasted hundreds of Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Chardonnay based wines already this year, and having seen the same trends with regard to acidity, alcohol, extraction and oak there, I feel confident in saying that there is a broad movement among the better wineries toward a “less is more” approach. I have not noticed a similar degree of change in Pinot Noir though. Perhaps the feeling is that, though California Pinot Noir is a good deal heavier and fruitier than Old World or even most Oregonian versions, the levels of alcohol, oak and extraction in absolute terms are not so high as to necessitate substantial change. In any case, the Rhone-varietal wines poured yesterday were generally leaner than those in the recent past.

Another trend I see is the increasing use of Grenache Blanc for single-varietal wines. This grape, which has historically been used primarily in blends and not been copiously planted in California, seems to be gaining favor with winemakers. Most of the Grenache Blanc-focused wines I’m tasting now seem to be targeted at people looking for crisp and refreshing wines that are more subtle than Sauvignon Blanc. The majority of the wines are being made without any oak and with little, if any, malolactic fermentation. While I don’t think that Grenache Blanc is “the next Chardonnay,” I do find typical Grenache Blancs I’m tasting to be more attractive than the majority of New World unoaked Chardonnay I’ve had. If you’re looking for something new for Spring or Summer, something clean with good acidity and interesting minerality that will go with a range of light foods, check out some of the top-rated Grenache Blanc from below.

Without further ado, I’ll post my recommendations based on the 2010 Rhone Rangers Grand Tasting below. As always, bear in mind that this was a walk-around tasting, not a blind tasting. My judgement may have been affected by anything from the winemaker’s smile to the aroma of those Aidell’s sausages. I stand by my ratings, but reserve the right to change them slightly based on future tastings under more controlled circumstances.

For your convenience, I’m breaking the ratings into two sections. The first is the dry whites (and the one rosé I tried), the second will be reds. Within each section, the wines are listed in alphabetical order by winery name. Those wines for which no varietal is explicitly stated are blends. I only tasted one dessert wine and am not including that category of wine in this review.

WHITE WINES
Very Highly Recommended
2008 L’Aventure Roussanne Estate, $35
Highly Recommended
2008 Adelaida Cellars Viognier Glenrose Vineyard, $30
2007 Anglim Viognier Bien Nacido Vineyard, Santa Barbara County, $26
2008 Arrowood Vineyards Viognier Saralee’s Vineyard, Russian River Valley, $30
2007 Bonny Doon Le Cigare Blanc, $22
2008 Calcareous Vineyard, $28
2008 Clavo Cellars Viognier Apparition, $15
2008 Clavo Cellars Grenache Blanc Oracle, $18
2008 Clayhouse Wines Estate Cuvee Blanc Paso Robles, $23
2009 Clos Saron Carte Blanche, Sierra Foothills, $24 Sauvignon blend!
2008 Edward Sellers Viognier, $29
2008 Edward Sellers Estate Blanc, $35
2008 Epiphany Grenache Blanc, Santa Barbara County, $24
2007 JC Cellars Marsanne Stagecoach Vineyard, $38
2008 Katin Viognier, Paso Robles, $32
2008 Grenache Blanc, Paso Robles, $32
2008 Novy Family Viognier, Russian River Valley, $22 100% stainless steel, no ML
2007 Qupé Roussanne, Bien Nacido Hillside Estate, $40
2008 Sarah’s Vineyard Roussanne Estate Vineyard, $22
2008 Sierra Vista Viognier, $22.50
2008 Skylark Pinot Blanc Orsi Vineyard, Mendocino County, $16
2007 Sol Rouge Viognier, $32
2008 Stage Left Cellars The Go Getter, Central Coast, $34
2008 Tablas Creek Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc, $40
2007 Treana Winery, $25 [At present, this wine is on the border between highly recommend and recommended. I’m placing it at the higher level with the caveat that it needs 6 months to a year of bottle age, which is almost always the case with this particular wine.]

Recommended
2008 Adelaida Cellars Version, $30
2006 Anglim Cameo, Paso Robles, $22
2006 Arroyo Robles Rosé Estate Syrah, $21
2008 Bonny Doon Vineyard Viognier Dewn, $20
2008 Caliza Kissin Cousins, $28
2008 Carina Viognier, $22
2009 Cass Winery Roussanne Estate, $26
2009 Cass Winery Viognier Estate, $22
2009 Cline Cellars Marsanne-Roussanne, $16
2009 Concannon Vineyard Viognier, $15
2007 Derby Wine Estate Fifteen 10 White, $24
2007 Frick Winery Grenache Blanc Estate Owl Hill Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley, $27
2007 Frick Winery Viognier Estate Gannon Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley, $27
2008 Hagafen Roussanne Lodi, $18 [kosher]
2008 Halter Ranch Estate Vineyard Cotes du Paso, $24
2009 Holly’s Hill Viognier Estate Vineyard, $18
2008 Jemrose Vineyards Viognier Egret Pond, $32
2008 Justin Viognier, $22
2008 Lawer Family Viognier Three Coins, $24
2007 Lone Madrone Roussanne, $28
2008 Lone Madrone White Blend, $22
2007 Michael-David Vineyards Viognier Incognito, $16
2007 Michaud Marsanne Estate Vineyard, Chalone AVA, $40 [This wine was a notably viscous, if that’s not your preference in Rhone whites beware.]
2008 Miner Family Marsanne La Diligence, $38
2008 Pride Viognier, Sonoma County, $42
2007 Quady North Viognier, Steelhead Run Vineyard, Applegate Valley, $19
2008 Qupé Marsanne, $20
2008 Robert Hall Winery Viognier, $20
2007 Rosenblum Roussanne Fess Parker, $25
2007 Sarah’s Vineyard Cote de Madone Blanc, $27
2008 Sierra Vista Roussanne, $22.50
2008 Skinner Vineyards Seven Generations, $25
2007 Sol Rouge Gypsy Blanc, $28
2007 Stark Wine Viognier, $25
2008 Tablas Creek Cotes de Tablas Blanc, $25
2008 Tablas Creek Grenache Blanc, $30
2008 Tablas Creek Roussanne, $30
2007 Terre Rouge Roussanne, Sierra Foothills, $25
2007 Terre Rouge Viognier, Amadaor County, $25
2007 Terre Rouge Enigma, Sierra Foothills, $25
2008 Terry Hoage The Gap Cuvee Blanc, $32
2008 Thacher Viognier Hastings Ranch, $25
2008 Truchard Roussanne, $20
2009 Villa Creek White Blend, Paso Robles, $24
2006 Zaca Mesa Roussanne Estate Vineyard, $25
2008 Zaca Mesa Grenache Blanc Estate Vineyard, $25

Since I did sample almost every dry white wine offered [by wineries located from Paso Robles north in California] at the 2010 Rhone Rangers Grand Tasting, it’s fair for you to assume that if a wine is in the Grand Tasting catalog but not on my list I am not recommending it. That said, I would like to clarify two things. First, non-recommendation does not mean that a wine is bad. It may be quite acceptable but simply isn’t at the same level as those above. Second, there are a few wines which I simply didn’t get to at the tasting. I’m listing them below so that their absence from the lists of recommended wines isn’t misinterpreted.
2008 Clautiere Vineyards Estate Viognier
2008 Jada Vineyard XCV, $35
2008 Michael-David Roussanne Chicken Duck
2006 Pug Blanc Saralee’s Vineyard Russian River Valley
2007 Pug Blanc Saralee’s Vineyard Russian River Valley
2006 Renaissance Viognier
2006 Renaissance Roussanne
2006 Renaissance Roussanne Vin du Terroir
2007 Steele Viognier, Lake County, $16
2008 Steele Roussanne, Writer’s Block, Lake County, $16

RED WINES
Highly Recommended
2005 Domaine Serene Syrah Del Rio Vineyard, $45
2007 Edward Sellers Mourvedre, $45
2007 Fleming Jenkins Syrah Black Ridge Vineyard, Santa Cruz Mountains, $40
2006 JC Sellers Syrah, Ventana Vineyard, $30
2006 Kaleidos Syrah, $
2006 Kaleidos Grenache, $45
2007 Outpost Petite Syrah The Other, Howell Mountain, $50 [Needs 7 years of bottle age at minimum]
2007 Pride Syrah, Sonoma County, $60
2008 Shane Syrah The Unknown, North Coast, $38
2008 Shane Syrah Jemrose Vineyard, Bennett Valley, $42
2008 Shane Syrah Judge, $NA
2007 Skylark Syrah Unti Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley, $26
2007 Skylark Syrah Rodgers Creek Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, $36
2007 Skylark Syrah Stagecoach Vineyard, Napa, $40
2007 Sol Rouge Syrah, $32
2006 Stage Left Cellars The Breadwinner Central Coast, $42
2006 Stage Left Cellars Petite Sirah Russell Family Vineyards, Paso Robles, $40
2007 Villa Creek Mourvedre Damas Noir, Paso Robles, $40

Recommended
2006 Domaine Serene Syrah Rockblock Reserve, $40
2007 Fleming Jenkins Syrah Madden Ranch, Livermore Valley, $40
2007 Justin Syrah, $27
2007 Justin Savant, $45
2005 Kaleidos Syrah, $28
2006 Kaleidos Osiris, $28 [Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre]
2006 Kaleidos Morpheus, $34 [Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre]
2007 Outpost Grenache, Howell Mountain, $40
2007 Outpost Petite Syrah, Howell Mountain, $35
2007 Skylark Red Belly, $20
2007 Skylark, Grenache, Mendocino County, $26
2006 Sol Rouge Grenache, $36
2006 Sol Rouge Gypsy Rouge, $28
2007 Sol Rouge Mourvedre, $29
2006 Sol Rouge The Keep, $NA
2007 Stage Left Cellars Syrah The Escape Artist Watch Hill Vineyard, Los Alamos, $38
2007 Stage Left Cellars Syrah The Scenic Route Del Rio Vineyards, Rogue Valley, $38
2007 Villa Creek Garnacha Denner Vineyard, Paso Robles, $35
2007 Villa Creek High Road James Berry Vineyard, Paso Robles, $50

I tasted very few red wines, so the two lists above should be taken as isolated recommendations and no assumptions of any kind should be made about wines that are not listed. In many cases, I only tasted one or two wines from a given winery though they had more available.

Follow NorCalWine on Twitter for breaking wine news, information on events and more. Become a fan and join the NorCal Wine community on Facebook. Also check out our comprehensive Northern California winery listings. They are very useful for planning a tasting trip or just getting in touch with a winery.

This article is original to NorCalWine.com. Copyright 2010 NorCal Wine. All rights reserved.

The Best of 2011 Rhone Rangers SF Wine Tasting

Tasting Event

Written by Fred Swan

Created on Tuesday, 29 March 2011 23:04

Sunday, I attended the Rhone Rangers Grand Tasting at Fort Mason in San Francisco. I got there just a few minutes after noon for the trade tasting and stayed through consumer tasting until 5PM. Overall, I thought it to be a very good event.

There was certainly no shortage of wine. I sampled well over 100 wines during my five hours of focused tasting and conversing with winemakers. Yet, I doubt that I tried even 20% of all the wines available.

Overall Impressions

Rhone-variety wines made on the west coast are continuing to improve. I only tasted a couple of wines yesterday that were merely acceptable in quality, and none that were poor. I have noticed a steady progression in this regard over the past five years or so. Part of this may be that, since Syrah and Viognier are no longer “the next Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay,” there are fewer wineries taking half-hearted stabs at Rhone wines for sake of fashion.

Of course, plenty of wineries have been making very good wines all along. Many of them, especially those who went into the making of Rhone variety wines with a somewhat European sensibility, have not even changed their style. Others have made changes and though their wines were good in the past, they are better now and more drinkable. Whereas some had used the jammy and high-alcohol stereotypes of Australian Shiraz as a model, now the reds tend to be leaner, more complex and food-friendly wines. There is also a clear trend now toward sourcing Syrah grapes from cool climate vineyards.

Another varietal undergoing transformation in California is Viognier. Just three or four years ago, there were a lot of Viognier-varietal wines poured at events such as Rhone Rangers and Family Winemakers. Frankly, many of them weren’t very good. It seemed that Viognier was treated like some California Chardonnay had been: pick it ripe, let it go through complete malolactic fermentation and then stuff it into French oak barrels, 100% new. The wines were often thick, flabby and on the sweet side with flavors dominated by jammy fruit, oak and vanilla.

While there is still plenty of Viognier out there, a majority of winemakers are now making it in a more elegant style. They’ve cut way back on oak, sometimes eschewing it entirely. Some also arrest malolactic fermentation to retain acidity. I didn’t find a single Viognier yesterday that reminded me of Anna Nicole Smith.

The 2009 Adelaida Cellars Viognier (Paso Robles, $30) is an excellent example of the new approach. Winemaker Terry Culton wants to showcase their vineyard’s calcareous soils. “The calcareous influence would be covered up by new oak,” he told me. So he does his fermentation in neutral French oak. They also use small stainless steel barrels on 20% of the wine so that it can sit sur lie for a while and take some flavors and texture from that without any loss of freshness. Stainless steel tanks preserve fruit and crispness, but there wouldn’t be enough lees contact to be noticeable. Culton does not allow full malolactic fermentation either. He says the theme of his process is “control.”

This control shows in the final product. It is a Viognier of balance. Crisp peach is coupled with delicate floral notes. The minerality shows through and the lees influence provides subtle background flavors and interesting texture. Highly Recommended.

As was the case last year, the “it” grapes now are Grenache and Grenache Blanc. Generally, that’s a good thing, especially since they both excel in blends which have the theoretical potential to be more interesting and better balanced than single-varietal wines. On the other hand, as single-varietal wines they can be a little boring, And both grapes can result in very high alcohol wines, so vineyard managers and winemakers do need to be careful.

My favorite among the red wines including some Grenache was the 2008 Terry Hoage Vineyards “The Pick Cuvee,” (Paso Robles, $48). The wine now includes only estate fruit — organically farmed — and Terry does all of the winemaking. That’s quite a job as he creates more than 100 different wines for eventual blending. The Pick, a melange of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and Counoise, is simultaneously pretty and very complex with great fruit flavors but a whole lot more. I wish I had a glass right now. Very Highly Recommended.

Terry Hoage at the Rhone Rangers Grand Tasting in San Francisco, March 27, 2001.
Photo credit: Fred Swan

About My Top Picks

I chose to taste Northern California wines almost exclusively. Excellent producers were also on hand from the southern Central Coast, Oregon and Washington. But, there just wasn’t enough time in a single day to examine wines from Northern California fully, let alone those of our neighbors. That said, I did stop by Tercero Wines. I highly recommend the 2008 Tercero Cuvee Christie ($28) and the 2008 Tercero Cuvee Loco ($30). If you have a jones for Mourvedre, I can also recommend the 2008 Tercero Mourvedre Camp 4 Vineyard ($30).

My recommendations from big wine tasting events such as Rhone Rangers always come with a few disclaimers. I didn’t taste every wine. If I don’t recommend your favorite, I may not have tasted it. The tasting isn’t blind or in a controlled environment. My opinions may be colored by a winemaker’s charm or the overwhelming smell of BBQ sauce from a nearby table. [I did not give in to the temptation to taste it though.] Nonetheless, I thought the following wines were aces. I’ve listed them by category/recommendation level and then alphabetically by winery.

White Wines: Highly Recommended

2009 Adelaida Cellars Viognier, $30

2008 Anglim Grenache Blanc, $28 — 100% varietal, single vineyard

2007 Derby White Blend “Fifteen 10,” $24
2008 Derby White Blend “Fifteen 10,” $24
2008 JC Cellars Marsanne Stagecoach Vineyard, $38 — White flowers, marzipan and mineral. Serve cooler than normal to tame the 15.2% alcohol.

2009 Jemrose Vineyards Viognier, Egret Pond, $32 — Lovely peach aromatics, fresh and textured on the palate

2009 Katin Grenache Blanc, $32 — Unusually sensuous nose for Grenache Blanc.

2009 Terry Hoage “The Gap Cuvee Blanc,” $38 — Full-bodied

2009 Treana White Blend, $25 — Unctuous stone fruit and marmalade. A very full-bodied, decadent winter white.

White Wines: Recommended

2009 Alta Colina Viognier Blend “12 O’Clock,” $28 — 70% Viognier with Marsanne, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc

2009 Ambyth Estate White Blend “Priscus,” $45 — Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier 

2008 Bonny Doon White Blend “Le Cigare Blanc,” $22

2009 Calcareous Vineyard Viognier, $28 — Floral aromas with stone fruit and marzipan. 50% stainless, 50% oak (Just 5% of the total cuvee saw new oak.)
2008 Calcareous Vineyard White Blend, $28 — 75% Viognier, 25% Marsanne. Rich but in balance. Fruit-centric with minerality.

2008 Caliza White Blend “Kissin’ Cousins,” $25

2008 Frick Grenache Blanc, Estate Owl Hill Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley, $27
2009 Katin Viognier, $32 — Soft and pretty
2008 Kaleidos White Blend, $27 — An all-stainless production of Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne and Grenache Blanc from the Alta Colina Vineyard
2008 Lone Madrone Roussanne, $28

2009 Novy Family Viognier, $20 — The fruit is ripe, but the wine is still fresh. They used no oak and the wine didn’t undergo malolactic fermentation.

2009 Pride Viognier, $42
2009 Vina Robles “WHITE4,” $16 — Fruit-forward, yet gentle and complex.

Red Wines: Very Highly Recommended

2008 Terry Hoage “The Pick Cuvee,” $48 — see paragraph 11 above for details

2008 Villa Creek “Bete Noire” Red Blend, $45

Red Wines: Highly Recommended

2008 Adelaida Cellars Syrah Viking Vineyard, $65 — This wine can handle some aging
2008 Alta Colina Red Blend, $38 — Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre
2008 Alta Colina Petite Sirah “Old 900,” $48

2008 Alta Colina Petite Sirah “Ann’s Block,” $48
2009 Arnot-Roberts Syrah, Griffin’s Lair Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, $56

2010 Arnot-Roberts Syrah, Clary Ranch, ~$40 — 100% Syrah, black pepper, green olives and evergreen forest

2008 Cosa Obra Red Blend “Proprietor’s Blend,” $38 — Syrah and Grenache
2009 Cosa Obra “Other” Proprietor’s Blend — barrel sample

2008 Cypher Winery Red Blend “Peasant,” $40 — formerly “Four Vines Winery”
2007 JC Cellars Syrah, Rockpile Vineyard, $60
2008 Kukkula “Sisu” Red Blend, $30
2007 Martinelli Syrah, Lolita Ranch, $75

2007 Syrah, Zio Tony Ranch, $75

2009 Outpost Grenache, Howell Mountain, $45 — An exceptionally dark and rich Grenache

2008 Wind Gap Syrah, Sonoma Coast, $48 — Black and white pepper, herb and brambly fruit
2009 Wind Gap Syrah, Griffins Lair Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, $48 — Juicy with very dark, moody flavors.
2007 Pride Syrah, $60 — Black pepper, leather and gamey black fruit 

2008 Skylark Syrah, Rodgers Creek Vineyard, $36

2007 Stage Left Cellars “The Breadwinner” Red Blend, Central Coast, $42
2009 Austin Hope Grenache, Hope Family Vineyard, $42 — Chocolate truffle rolled in cherry powder.

2008 Wrath Syrah, Doctor’s Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands, $39

Red Wines: Recommended

2008 Adelaida Cellars Grenache, $32

2008 Adelaida Cellars Syrah, Anna’s Vineyard, $28
2008 Alta Colina Syrah “Toasted Slope,” $38
2006 Anglim Grenache — 7% Counoise

2009 Arnot-Roberts Syrah, North Block Hudson Vineyard, Carneros, Napa Valley, $56

2008 Caliza Syrah, $45

2008 Cypher Winery Red Blend “Anarchy,” $40 — formerly “Four Vines Winery”
2008 Jemrose Vineyards Grenache, Foggy Knoll, $38
2008 Jemrose Vineyards Syrah, Cardiac Hill, $38

2008 Jemrose Vineyards “Gloria’s Gem Proprietary Red,” $65

2008 Justin “Savant” Red Blend, $45

2009 Kukkula “Sisu” Red Blend, $40 — All estate fruit as of this vintage

2009 Kukkula “Pas de Deux” Red Blend, $40

2007 Montemaggiore Syrah Reserve, $45

2009 Wind Gap “Orra,” $28 — Grenache, Mourvedre & Counoise; spicy fruit and leather

2008 Quivira Mourvedre, $32 — A very nice effort
2008 Skylark “Red Belly” Blend, $20 — Soft fruit with an earth edge. Excellent value!

2007 Skylark Syrah, Stagecoach Vineyard, $40
2008 Stage Left Cellars “The ExPat” Red Blend, Central Coast, $24

2008 Stage Left Cellars “Day Job,” $40 — Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Mourvedre
2008 Terry Hoage Syrah “5 Blocks Cuvee," $NA
2008 Travieso Syrah “Amaranta,” KW Ranch, Santa Lucia Highlands, $36
2008 Travieso “Traviesito,” $16
2009 Austin Hope Syrah, Hope Family Vineyard, $42
2008 Villa Creek “Avenger” Red Blend, $35
2008 Villa Creek “Garnache,” $35 — Cherry, oak and spice
2008 Villa Creek Grenache “La Boda,” $40

2008 Vina Robles “RED4,” $16

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Follow NorCalWine on Twitter for breaking wine news, information on events and more. Become a fan and join the NorCal Wine community on Facebook. Also check out our comprehensive Northern California winery listings. They are very useful for planning a tasting trip or just getting in touch with a winery.

This article is original to NorCalWine.com. Copyright 2011 NorCal Wine. All rights reserved.