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On "Unexpected Napa Valley Wines"

In 1968, the value of Napa County’s beef production was virtually identical to that of its grapes[1]. There were 1,336 productive acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, but 1,492 acres of Petite Sirah. Chardonnay grew on 364 acres while French Colombard and Chenin Blanc each covered twice as much land. Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay combined accounted for just 14% of Napa’s wine grape plantings.

Today the picture is far different. Total vine acreage is four times greater. In 2013, Chardonnay represented 58% of Napa Valley’s white grape crush and Cabernet Sauvignon 55% of the red[2]. Petite Sirah was a mere 2%. Not a single ton of French Colombard was harvested.

Now, one might naturally assume Napa Valley wines made from obscure varieties, such as Grignolino and Tocai Friuliano, are a new fad. But, while their winemakers may enjoy offering non-standard wines, no Cabernet or Chardonnay vines were grubbed up to do so. Despite the valley’s massive transition, some “heritage” vines still exist in Napa Valley. Jon Bonné and Eric Asimov took wine writers on a largely historical tour with new wines made from old grapes in a seminar called Unexpected Napa Valley Wines at The Symposium for Professional Wine Writers late last month.

Their Unexpected Napa Valley Wines and my thoughts on them

2012 AbrenteAbrente 2012 Albariño, Napa Valley
Some comments on the Mark Squires message board take the position that, since there’s good Albariño in Spain, making it in Napa Valley is stupid. I agree. And since there’s good Cabernet Sauvignon in Bordeaux, we should rip out all the Cabernet in Napa too. But, in the meantime, Michael Havens and Morgan Twain-Peterson are making this full-bodied, Carneros Albariño with long-lasting flavors of tropical fruit, tangy peach and white flowers. The palate weight is balanced by prominent acidity and grippy texture. It’s very nice. Try it with Chicken Koorma. Highly Recommended. About $23.

I should point out here that Albariño is not a blast from Napa's past. It was introduced to Napa Valley by Michael Havens himself in the late 1990's[3]. He also led the effort to get it offically approved by the TTB as a legal varietal in the U.S. His 2000 release was this country's first commercial Albariño wine. Now the grape grows in a variety of California AVAs.

Chappellet Vineyards & Winery 2012 Chenin Blanc, Napa Valley
There are just 22 acres of Chenin Blanc left in Napa Valley, a mere 2% of 1982’s sum. Good riddance, say some, since Chenin in California has mostly been associated with high-volume, nondescript whites from the Central Valley. But that’s got nothing to do with varietal releases from serious wineries in Napa Valley.

There was Chenin in the vineyard when the Chappellets purchased their property back in the 1960’s. The vineyard was replanted a decade ago, but a combination of French oak, stainless barrels and concrete egg add complexity to the wine. It’s off-dry, mouth-filling and minerally with a core of juicy, yet under-ripe stone fruit.It won't make you forget top-quality Vouvray but it’s a good wine. Served chilled with hot, crispy arancini. Recommended. $32

Massican 2012 White Blend, Annia, Napa Valley
If you want to start throwing “hipster” around, I guess this would be the time. Massican’s Dan Petroski went to Columbia, has lived in Brooklyn and worked in publishing before chucking it all to to study winemaking in Italy. Now in Napa Valley, he’s making wines to suit his Friuli-loving palate. On the other hand, “hipster” doesn’t describe wine (or anything) very well. So let’s scrap that and talk about the wine.

The blend is 46% Ribolla Gialla from Oak Knoll and Russian River Valley, 36% Tocai Friuliano from Chiles Valley and 18% Chardonnay from Carneros. The nose and palate are mineral-laden and delicately fruity with taut apple and stone fruit. Medium-bodied with juicy acid and just 12.7%, I’d enjoy this wine with linguine alle vongole, a white pizza or all by itself on a warm day. Highly Recommended. About $28.

Matthiasson 2011 White Wine Blend, Napa Valley Steve Matthiasson’s NapItal white also features Ribolla Gialla and Tocai Friuliano but pairs them with Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon instead of Chardonnay. The nose offers subtle jasmine perfume along with mineral notes and a mix of slightly tart tropical fruits that carry through in the mouth. The palate is fresh, medium+ in body and smooth, yet grippy. This wine would be perfect with the grilled octopus burrito from La Taquiza (next to the Starbucks on Redwood Rd. in Napa). Highly Recommended+. $40.

Heitz Wine Cellars 2012 Grignolino, Napa Valley
This unassuming wine has been a focal point for the scorn of Wine Advocate writers and their supporters this week. Lisa Perotti-Brown complained that the wine looked more like a rosé than a red, but then that’s the varietally correct appearance for Grignolino. One person dismissed the wine with an irrelevance, quoting Oz Clarke’s views on the variety in Italy. Others have totally missed the point that this is not a new grape to Napa.

Grignolino was already resident in “The One and Only Vineyard” when Joe Heitz bought it in 1961. It won’t be confused with Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and that’s just fine in my book. It’s a $19, medium-bodied red wine with light, yet grippy, tannins, generous acidity and just 12.5% alcohol. The nose is fresh and lively, reminiscent of rose petals, purple flowers and huckleberry pie. Tart berry flavors and juiciness are long-lasting in the mouth. Lisa Perotti-Brown likened it to an average Gamay. If “average” equates to 88 points or so, I agree. It’s a versatile lunch wine, right for everything from steak tartare, or a turkey sandwich with cranberry sauce, to a bowl of cioppino. Recommended.

Lagier-Meredith 2011 Syrah, Mount Veeder
Syrah might be considered unexpected in Napa not because it’s still left from the old days but because someone was crazy enough to plant some recently. There was none at all in 1968’s Napa Valley. The other unexpected thing about this wine is that, owing to the Mount Veeder growing location, it’s got a disciplined, cool-climate personality.

I found aromas and flavors of thick-skinned black plums, mountain blackberries, licorice, earth and white pepper. Body is medium+ with firm, lightly chalky tannins and acidity that peeks through. This is a very enjoyable wine now—decant it or braise a lamb shank—but will soften and gain delicious complexity for at least a decade in the cellar. Very Highly Recommended. $48

Turley Wine Cellars 2011 Petite Sirah Library Vineyard, Napa Valley
Despite it’s drop to 2% of red crush, Petite Sirah isn’t exactly unexpected in Napa Valley. Several of the other grapes in this complicated, mixed black (and white) blend are though. They include Mission, Peloursin, Grand Noir (huh?), Cinsault, Muscat of Alexandria, Muscadelle, Burger and Green Hungarian. That’s seriously old school.

I found this wine’s nose almost as opaque as its color during the tasting, but dense purple fruit and a hint of spice showed through. The body is medium+ with fine, very grippy tannins and plenty of acidity offsetting zesty dark berries and spice. This is your grandfather’s Petite Sirah and will reward cellaring. Highly Recommended+. $70

Corison 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
Okay. There’s nothing unexpected about a Corison Cabernet Sauvignon at tasting presented by Jon Bonné. (Welcome, yes. Unexpected, no.) It would, however, have surprised any writers who expect all wines of that variety from Napa Valley to be voluptuous studies in ripe cherry, black currant and mocha. Visitors from Bordeaux might also wonder when Napa started bottling St. Julien juice.

The nose is complex but dignified. Dry black currant is surrounded by an elegant range of spice, mineral and wood aromas which are indivdually distinct but also combine to smell something like the center drawer of an antique wooden desk. The palate is nearly full-bodied with firm tannins of light chalk but balancing acidity. Flavors include chewy blackberry, violets, pencil lead and crushed gravel. Very Highly Recommended. $80

Follow NorCalWine on Twitter for wine news, information on events and more, or friend me on Facebook. This article is original to NorCalWine.com. Copyright 2014. All rights reserved.


  1. Annual Crop Report Gross Values 1969, Napa County  ↩

  2. Preliminary Grape Crush 2013, NASS-USDA  ↩

  3. Napa Valley Wine Library Report, Summer 2005  ↩

On a Vertical Tasting of Grgich-Hills Cabernet Sauvignon Yountville Selection

Grgich-Hills hosted a vertical tasting of their Yountville Selection Cabernet Sauvignon this week. The fruit comes from a vineyard near Hopper Creek that was planted in 1959, coincidentally just one year after Mike Grgich first arrived in Napa Valley. The vineyard lies across a dirt road from DominusNapanook vineyard, the site of Napa’s very first wine grapes planted by George Yount, and features “Inglenook Clone” Cabernet Sauvignon on the long-lived, Phylloxera-resistant St. George rootstock. Mike Grgich bought the vineyard in 1984 and lived in its Victorian house for 20 years thereafter. Grgich-Hills believes the vineyard to be the second-oldest productive Cabernet Sauvignon plot in Napa Valley.

The first vintage Grgich-Hills offered a Yountville Selection Cabernet Sauvignon was 1991. I and fellow writers tasted that ’91 alongside 1994, 1997, 2004, 2007 and 2010. It wasn’t until 2002 that such a wine was released every year. The only wine released in the ’90’s we didn’t get to try was 1995.

Grgich-Yountville-Selection
Photo: Fred Swan

It probably won’t surprise you that the wines of the early 1990’s are moderate in alcohol and framed by acidity while the later wines are richer, mouth-filling and rely primarily on tannins for structure. What caught me off guard, and likely will you, is that the fruit for those lean, energetic wines was picked later than that for the recent vintages.

Revitalizing a Vineyard

How does fan leaf-virused, 50-something-year old vines yield riper, richer Cabernet grapes earlier in the year than those same vines did 20 years prior? Or, for that matter, how a winery can even get reasonable yields from half-century Cabernet vines with rust-colored leaves?

It’s about old-school farming. In 1991, the vines seemed to be at the end of their productive lives. Yields were low. To eke out as much ripeness as possible, harvests were delayed until the very last moment. Then, Grgich-Hills transitioned away from “modern” viticulture with commercial fertilizers and pesticides. They instituted organic agriculture that encourages healthy soil full of happy microorganisms. These microbes are essential to vine health as they convert nutrients in the soil into forms which roots can absorb and utilize. Years of pesticide use and reliance on artificial fertilizers deplete these microorganisms. Gradually, the soil recovered the naturally and dry-farmed vines became healthier and more fruitful.

Wine Styles

You say to-may-to, I say to-mah-to. There was a clear divide between the older wines and the younger with respect to acidity, tannic strength, alcohol level and palate richness. Many attendees were passionate about the juicy oldsters, full of energy and demanding food. I’m sympathetic to that and very much enjoyed those wines, though my ratings this time skew slightly in favor of the more exuberant, chewy, fruity young pups. The Grigich-Hills philosophy is that wine ought to be built for food. Even the “intoxicating” 2010 has freshness and will be a lovely dinner companion.

Notes on Six Vintages of Grgich-Hills Yountville Selection Cabernet Sauvignon

1991 Grgich-Hills Cabernet Sauvignon Yountville Selection
Dark ruby with a hint of garnet at the rim. Deep aromas of drying—yet somehow fresh—black currant, spice, moist cedar, dried leaves, coffee and tobacco. Medium to medium-plus body in the mouth with brisk acidity, moderate alcohol and just a hint of very fine, thoroughly integrated tannins. Flavors include tart black fruit, spice, lemon, drying leaves and potting soil. This wine evolved steadily in the glass, gradually building richness. It’s fully-developed but will hold for a good many years. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. 13.3% alcohol. Highly Recommended

1994 Grgich-Hills Cabernet Sauvignon Yountville Selection
Dark ruby with very slight garnet at the rim. The nose features spice, dry forest floor, cocoa and mushroom. Over time, a Worcestershire sauce aroma emerged. After the savory nose, the forward flavors of tart red and black currants, accompanied by spice and moist forest floor, came as a surprise. The body is solidly medium-plus but the very fine tannins are nearly subliminal. This wine is framed by acidity, but less racy than the ’91. Further developed than the 1991 or 1997, the 1994 is drinking well and was a favorite of many writers in attendance. I’d get to it fairly soon though. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. 13.5% alcohol. Recommended +

1997 Grgich-Hills Cabernet Sauvignon Yountville Selection
Deep garnet in color with a nose of moist, dusty wood, baked currants, dry mint, spice, violets, sandalwood and dried rose petals. It’s nearly full-bodied in the mouth with fine, chalky tannins slightly dominating acidity. Long-lasting flavors of moist forest floor, tart black currant, black cherry, earth and lemon. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. 13.5% alcohol. Highly Recommended+

2004 Grgich-Hills Cabernet Sauvignon Yountville Selection
Dark ruby core with a thin garnet rim. Beautifully fruity aromas of stewed black currant, macerated red cherry and red ropes with chocolate and dry leaves. Full-bodied in the mouth with a bounty of fine, chalky tannins. Tart blackberry, red cherry, licorice, dark chocolate and spice linger on the palate. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. 14.5% alcohol. Very Highly Recommended

2007 Grgich-Hills Cabernet Sauvignon Yountville Selection
Deep ruby and redolent of black cherries and chocolate with enticing accents of vanilla bean, butterscotch and baking spices. Full-bodied with fine-grained and chalky tannins. Juicy black cherries with licorice, chocolate and spice go on and on. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. 14.7% alcohol. Very Highly Recommended

2010 Grgich-Hills Cabernet Sauvignon Yountville Selection
Deep ruby and loaded with mocha, spice, black currant and red cherry aromatics. Full-bodied with fine-grained tannins in the mouth. Flavors include mocha, chocolate, macerated red and black cherries and an intriguing amount of earth. A sudden, late-season heat spike in the otherwise cool 2010 gave sugars a surprising boost and resulted in lower acidity and higher alcohol in this wine than is characteristic for Grgich-Hills or might otherwise be expected for the vintage. This is a delicious wine nonetheless. 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2.5% Cabernet Franc (Carneros), 2.5% Petite Verdot. 15.1% alcohol. Very Highly Recommended

To learn more about Grgich-Hills Yountville Vineyard, watch this video presentation by their VP of Vineyards & Production, Ivo Jeramaz.

 

Follow NorCalWine on Twitter for wine news, information on events and more, or friend me on Facebook. This article is original to NorCalWine.com. Copyright 2014. All rights reserved.

Get ready for the Annual Family Winemakers of California Tasting in SF on Aug 23

While much of the sheer volume of California wine is produced by very large corporate wineries, the vast majority of wineries in the state are family owned. It is those small, unique wineries that produce most of the best wines this country has to offer.

It isn’t always easy to find many of the wines for tasting though. Production quantities tend to be low and distribution limited. Some of the best small wineries don’t even have tasting rooms. So, while family wineries thrive on selling wine direct to consumer it’s often hard for consumers to get that essential first introduction to a wine.

The Annual Family Winemakers of California Tasting at Fort Mason in San Francisco is perhaps the best chance to taste a multitude of these special wines. This year, on Sunday, August 23, there will be about 360 small wineries offering tastes. With most of the wineries providing samples of multiple wines, the variety will be staggering. As will some of the tasters.

Delicious Bites and Sips from the ZAP Epicuria Food and Wine Pairing Evening

When sommeliers talk about wines that pair well with food, Zinfandel doesn’t usually make the top ten list. Nonetheless, there are many foods for which it’s a great match.

Each year at the ZAP! festival, there is an evening devoted to showcasing how Zinfandel goes with food. Scores of wineries pour one wine each. Each winery is teamed up with a restaurant whose chef prepares a dish to go with that wine. Attendees wander from table to table, trying the combinations.

This year’s pairing event, dubbed Epicuria, was the best I’ve attended. The quality of the wines was very high. The food was consistently good. There were also some truly excellent dishes — not an easy feat to pull off for hundreds of people in an exhibition hall. And there were a few revelatory pairings.

Fried foods are often served with sauce that adds a counterpoint of tangy sweetness: ketchup with french fries, remoulade with crab cakes or honey-mustard with chicken fingers. Paul’s Paella of Alameda served up deep fried balls of paella, sans sauce. Very similar to arancini, they were crisp on the outside but soft and almost creamy on the inside. With R & B Cellars 2009 Zydeco Napa Valley Zinfandel to sip on, the sauce wasn’t missed.

paella-balls

When matching wine with food, people usually dwell on the main protein. Often the sauce is more important though. Swan Oyster Depot [no relation] used that principle to make a dish which was simple, yet a brilliant pairing. It is also something you might easily make at home: shrimp cocktail. Small, pink bay shrimp were served in a cup with a generous dollop of cocktail sauce dosed with plenty of horseradish. The sauce was an excellent foil for the briny shrimp. The slightly jammy 2010 Peach Canyon Especial Estate Zinfandel from Paso Robles soothed my mouth after the horseradish and readied me for another bite. [For something in a similar vein, consider Zinfandel with cioppino.]

My favorite plate of the evening was from Rose Pistola. It won a James Beard award for best new restaurant upon opening in 1996. The cuisine is inspired by the food of Liguria, a region on the northwestern coast of Italy. [Trivia: Rose Pistola is located on Columbus Avenue. The street is named for Christopher Columbus who was born in Genoa, which is within Liguria.]

Rose Pistola’s dish was black truffle and ricotta ravioli with golden raisins, orange zest and delicately-browned butter. Never before have I been tempted to lick a paper plate. It was paired with the 2009 Storybook Mountain Eastern Exposure Estate Zinfandel from Napa Valley.

truffled-ravioli

This Storybook Mountain wine tells an interesting tale, but doesn’t shout. Complex and textured, it offers delectable berry fruit adorned by a range of spice, mineral and oak derived notes. A splash of Viognier, unusual for Zinfandel blends, contributes white floral notes and expands the spice box. In the pairing, black truffle and warm butter played off the earth in the wine, the orange zest danced on the berries and picked up the Viognier spice and flowers. Meanwhile, the fruit were a natural pairing for the ricotta cheese and provided a clean finish.

One of the best pairings for Zinfandel is braised meat. Tender, slow cooked beef or pork have a softness of texture that matches up well with the softness of some Zins. So do the deep flavors instilled by braising liquid which often includes a red wine reduction.

One of my favorite bites was from Componere Fine Catering. They braised and finely shredded pork cheek, made it into small patties and then pan-fried them until crispy. Resting on a pillow of smoked mashed potatoes, they were garnished with spicy pickled fennel. Mauritson’s 2009 Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel added a punch of ripe dark fruit, making a complete dish: savory, sour, salty and fruity.

pork-cheek

Pican, an Oakland restaurant offering cuisine with a Southern accent, took braised pork in a different direction. They smoked a Berkshire pig before braising it in an intricately-flavored molé sauce of peanuts, chiles, Coca-Cola and chocolate. It was served hot in cup on creamy grits elevated with black pepper. The dish echoed the attributes of Carol Shelton’s Old Vine Zinfandels, rich in texture and flavor with both sweetness and a spicy kick.

pork-mole

Blue cheese is a tough food to pair. It’s intense, tangy flavors and saltiness overwhelm most wines, be they red or white. A boldly fruity wine with noticeable sweetness and only moderate oak is called for. Many people surrender and grab a bottle of Port. Zinfandel can work though and allows you to move from a meat course into cheeses without changing wines and swapping glasses.

Cuvee Napa prepared tasty truffles with a core of Shaft Creamery’s Elies Vintage Blue Cheese rolled in crushed black walnuts from Mendocino. It was a powerful bite: mouth-coating and strongly flavorful. The 2008 Saddelback Cellars Old Vine Zinfandel harmonized and cleansed the palate.

cheese-balls

Good Zinfandel is an excellent match for food. It can provide a fruity contrast or spicy accent. It will cut through oily and creamy dishes or act in place of a zesty sauce. The right Zinfandel can take you all the way through a meal, from fried hors d’oeuvres on to a seafood course, a meaty main and then the cheese. Just save some for dessert.

Follow NorCalWine on Twitter for breaking wine news, information on events and more. Become a fan and join the NorCal Wine community on FacebookAlso check out our comprehensive Northern California winery listings. They are very useful for planning a tasting trip or just getting in touch with a winery.

This article is original to NorCalWine.com. Copyright 2012 NorCal Wine. Photos by Fred Swan. All rights reserved.

Rutherford Dust in My Mouth: Top Reds from the 2012 Trade Tasting

The room was crowded, the lights dim. Upwards of 100 warm bodies — and 100 Fahrenheits outside — raised the temperature of Raymond Vineyards’ tank room. Proprietors and winemakers from most of Rutherford’s wineries poured luxurious reds while cheerfully answering the same questions over and over. Buyers, somms and writers swirled, sniffed, sipped, spat (or not) and scored scores of wines. They chatted and shared opinions.

dust-tasting

The 2012 Rutherford Dust tasting felt more like a party than in years past. Perhaps it was the ambience, or the knowledge that this year Napa Valley is once again Mother Nature’s favorite child. Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignons only enhanced the mood. Almost without exception, the wines from 2008, 2009 and 2010 expressed the character of their vintage while also proving that top wineries in premier growing regions can produce beautiful juice come rain or come shine. 

Despite the convivial mood, the Rutherford Dust trade tasting is a serious business event. Some members of the trade decide which wineries they want to prioritize for subsequent one-on-one meetings. Some may make on-the-spot decisions about which wines they will buy and in what quantities. I and other writers carefully take notes so that we can pass our impressions along to you — and also to determine which wineries we should feature in future profiles.

I was only able to sample the wares of 25 wineries. Among those I missed entirely was the host winery, Raymond Vineyards. Here are notes on the best 23 wines I did taste.

The Best of the Best Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon

2006 Heitz Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon “Trailside” Rutherford, $70
2006 is the current release for this wine. Coming from an estate vineyard near Conn Creek, the wine spends 36 months in new French oak. Mint, black cherry, spice and chocolate. Medium+ body and medium to medium+ tannins that have softened with the extended aging. Very Highly Recommended

2009 Hewitt Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford, not yet released (NR)
Hewitt's estate vineyard is adjacent to that of Inglenook. The 2009 has a restrained but wonderful nose of black currant, sage and cocoa. Creamy palate that echoes the nose. Very Highly Recommended

2004 Hewitt Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford, $110
This wine has much in common with the 2009, but shows a little development. Black currant, cocoa powder and currant leaf on the nose. Matching flavors plus some dry leaves. Medium to medium+ body and a long, smooth finish. Very Highly Recommended

2009 Sojourn Cellars Beckstoffer Georges III Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford, $95
Beckstoffer's George III Vineyard is near Caymus Winery between Conn Creek Road and Silverado Trail. A creamy, full-bodied wine with black currant, red cherry chocolate and a trace of vanilla on the nose. Medium+, fine-grained tannins carry flavors of black cherry and cocoa. Very Highly Recommended

2010 Sojourn Cellars Beckstoffer Georges III Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford, NR
Hand-bottled just before the tasting and not due for release until January, the nose was only moderately intense but attractive with cocoa, coffee and black cherries. The full-bodied palate features medium+, fine-grained tannins, concentrated black cherry flavor and a long finish. Very Highly Recommended

2008 Peju Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford, $45
A rich and lovely wine with creamy black currant and chocolate nose and flavors. Medium+ body and powdery tannins. Very Highly Recommended

2009 Piña Cabernet Sauvignon Firehouse Vineyard Rutherford, NR
The Firehouse Vineyard is located on the rocky slopes behind Piña's winery on Silverado Trail, just north of Skellenger Lane. Dusty black cherry and spice on the nose. Medium+ body and tannins (medium-grained) with juicy black cherry and blackberry. Very Highly Recommended

2009 St. Clement Cabernet Sauvignon Star Vineyard Rutherford, NR
Star Vineyard is a primary source for Orropas, St. Clement's flagship wine. The vineyard lies west of Highway 29 on the upper Rutherford Bench. Black currant, toast and gentle spice aromas and flavors with full body, fine powdery tannins and a long finish. Very Highly Recommended

2008 Staglin Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford, $185
The Staglin Family Vineyard is nestled at the base of Mount St. John, west of Highway 29. Very attractive aromatically with cocoa, vanilla, currant leaf and black currant. Medium+ body and fine-grained tannins are balanced by everlasting juicy black currant on the palate. Very Highly Recommended.

2009 Staglin Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford, NR
A nose of dusty black currant, spice and dry currant leaf precedes the full-bodied palate. Tannins are medium+ with both medium-grain and chalky sensations. The flavors of black currant, dark spice and milk chocolate go on and on. Very Highly Recommended.

Highly Recommended 2008 Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon

2008 Provenance Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Barrel Select Rutherford, $50
Provenance takes the fruit for this wine from three different vineyards including their estate, west of Highway 29, and the Beckstoffer George III Vineyard. This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, best-of-the-barrels wine brings black currant and currant leaf with firm, drying tannins. Best from 2014. Highly Recommended

2009 Provenance Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford, $45
Unlike the 2008 Barrel Select, this wine includes both Malbec and Petit Verdot. The majority of the fruit comes from the Hewitt and Beckstoffer George III Vineyards. It’s dark purple in color with a nose of dark fruit and spice. Medium+ and tannins with a lightly chalky feel. The spicy black fruit and huckleberry flavors go on and on. Highly Recommended

2008 Sequoia Grove Cabernet Sauvignon Morisoli Vineyard Rutherford, $100
Black currant, dusty cocoa and a subtle note of dry leaves on the nose. Medium+ body and tannins, medium-grained and drying, with flavors of black currant, cocoa and spice in a long finish. To be released in December, 2012. Highly Recommended

Highly Recommended 2009 Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon

2009 Flora Springs Hillside Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford, $100
This wine comes from Block J of the estate vineyard on the bench in northwestern Rutherford. Ripe black currant and perfumey spice. Full-bodied with substantial tannins, both chalky and light-grained. Highly Recommended+

2009 Frank Family Vineyards Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford, NR
From the terraced Winston Vineyard east of Silverado Trail. Aromas of dusty black currant with a hint of currant leaf. Medium+ body and powdery tannins with ripe black currant and chocolate flavors. Highly Recommended+

2009 Freemark Abbey Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Sycamore Vineyard Rutherford, NR
The Sycamore Vineyard is up against the hills in southwest Rutherford, near Staglin. Medium+ body with medium to medium+ fine-grained tannins. A classic Cabernet Sauvignon showing balance between black currant, dusty mint and oak. Highly Recommended

2009 Tres Sabores Perspective Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford, NR
Tres Sabores' estate vineyard is in northwestern Rutherford, against the hills and south of Whitehall Lane. Lovely black currant plus black cherry, cocoa, cola and a whisper of currant leaf. Medium+ body and tannins (medium-grained). Highly Recommended

2009 Trinchero Chicken Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford, NR
The Chicken Ranch Vineyard is on the valley floor between Highway 29 and Silverado Trail. Expressive black currant, currant leaf and dusty cocoa on the nose and palate. Medium+ body and substantial fine, chalky tannins. Highly Recommended

2009 William Harrison Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford, NR
William Harrison's estate vineyard is near the hills of eastern Rutherford. A pretty wine that smells and tastes of caramel and that semi-liquid cherry filling you find in some chocolate bonbons. The body is medium plus as are the tannins which are drying and have a talc-like texture. Lengthy finish. Highly Recommended+

Highly Recommended 2010 Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon

2010 Fleury Estate Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford, NR
Medium+ body and powdery tannins with ripe black currant and chocolate flavors. To be released next year. Highly Recommended

Other Noteworthy Rutherford Red Wines

2009 William Harrison Winery Cabernet Franc Rutherford, NR
100% Cabernet Franc yields red cherry, mint and currant leaf aromatics. The palate is nearly full-bodied with matching, fine-grained tannins. Highly Recommended

2009 Rutherford Grove Sangiovese Pestoni Ranch Estate Rutherford, $35
The Pestoni Vineyard is just west of Highway 20 and north of Whitehall Lane. This charming Sangiovese provided a welcome change-up for my taste buds mid-way through the Cabernets. Red cherry, leather, toasted oak and vanilla aromas and flavors, rich palate and smooth tannins. Highly Recommended

1969 Freemark Abbey Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Bosché Vineyard Rutherford
The Bosché Veinyard is in northwest Rutherford midway between the hills and Highway 29. After more than 40 years — and based on just a very quick taste from a borrowed glass — this wine offers just one flavor, but it’s a beautiful one. Deep coffee resonates on the nose and palate like a single, sustained note from Yo-Yo Ma’s cello. Medium body and integrated tannins. This wine was included in the famous Paris Tasting of 1976 and some of the subsequent re-visitings. It wasn’t among the top scorers then and isn’t now. However, I loved smelling and tasting it and wish I had some in my cellar. I’m very appreciative of Freemark Abbey Winery’s generosity in opening a bottle for us. Recommended

Related Articles:

Spotlight on the Rutherford AVA
What is Rutherord Dust?

 

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