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Free: Hospice du Rhone 2010 iPhone App Available

I'm really looking forward to Hospice du Rhone this year. it's coming up soon, April 29 - May 1, in Paso Robles. To help people like me, and you, get up to speed on everything that will go on there, the wineries involved, etc., the HdR organization has put out an iPhone app. This is the first event based iPhone app i've seen.

I downloaded it as soon as it hit the Apple App Store on Monday. There's a lot of cool stuff in there that could well be of use to you regardless of whether or not you go to the event. There's winery and varietal information, Rhone wine quizzes and more. And the price is right. Free!

Sonoma William posted an in-depth HdR 2010 iPhone app review at Simple Hedonisms if you want to learn more.

North Coast Rhone Rangers Build Momentum with Second Tasting

The Rhone Rangers North Coast Chapter is fairly new as an active group. The tasting they held on Tuesday was just their second. Despite that, the event was thoughtfully organized, a pleasure to attend and included a number of excellent wines.

It’s a little surprising to me that there hasn’t been an active chapter of Rhone Rangers until recently. Napa Valley, Sonoma County and Mendocino County all have excellent sites for growing Rhone-variety grapes. Some of California’s best come from those areas. Of course mindshare for varieties such as Syrah, Grenache, Viognier and Grenache Blanc, not to mention Marsanne, is still much lower than that of Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay or even Sauvignon Blanc. Which makes it all the more important for this to group thrive.

Tuesday’s North Coast Rhone Rangers tasting was held at the Napa Valley Museum in Yountville. The museum was an excellent venue—clean, quiet, temperature-controlled, easy to get to and just the right size. The fresh white walls and attractive art also brought an elegance usually missing for group tastings. That said, I hope that the group outgrows the facility soon.

Fifteen wineries poured at this tasting, a respectable number and a manageable size for attendees. I’d love to see three times that many producers participate. There are more than enough quality producers to make that an achievable goal. However, the chapter only has 34 members at present and just six from Napa. Come on, Napa...

The majority of the producers at this tasting were small. Of the wines poured, about 45, only five had case volumes above 500. Quite a few are below 200.

The tasting also confirmed a trend toward leaner, less syrupy Rhone-variety wines in northern California. Of all the wines poured, only one exceeded 15% alcohol and that just barely at 15.1%. More than half of the wines offered come in below 14% alcohol.

Map: Rhone Rangers North Coast Chapter

 Wines to Covet

I own way too much wine. This is only a problem in that I try very hard not to acquire any more these days. And sometimes I taste wines that I really, really want to buy. Here are the three wines that most made me regret having put myself on double-secret wine-buying probation.

William Allen made just half a barrel of the 2012 Two Shepherds Marsanne Russian River Valley. That’s very sad because it’s an absolutely beautiful wine. The people, probably club members, who get some are going to be very happy and I hope they are able to share with friends (or wine writers). The wine is floral but in a subtle, pretty way. There are hibiscus, peach blossom, marzipan and mineral on the nose and palate. Medium-plus body with satiny texture and a lengthy finish make it elegant yet satisfying in the mouth. $35, Highly Recommended+

My "rosé of the day award" goes to the 2012 Cornerstone Corallina Syrah Rosé Napa Valley, Stepping Stone. It’s flat out delicious. The generous aromas and flavors include guava, peach, strawberry and melon. It has medium-plus body and a silky glycerine feel in the mouth that literally made me come back for more. $20, Highly Recommended.

The red wine which most tempted me to feign temporary amnesia while whipping out a credit card was the 2007 Ridge Petite Sirah Dynamite Hill, Spring Mountain. Though a 2007, this is a current release for Ridge because... Petite Sirah. And, though a Spring Mountain Petite Sirah, it has ample acidity and just 13.7% alcohol because... Ridge. It was dark ruby in my glass with powerful aromas of black cherry, spice, tobacco and cedar. Whole berry fermentation and a few years of bottle age have resulted in moderate tannins with a lightly chalky texture and a Petite Sirah that can be enjoyed with our without food. $32, Highly Recommended.

Wineries to Watch

Kale Wines is the personal project of winemaker Kale Anderson and his wife, Ranko. Kale’s main gig is director of winemaking at Pahlmeyer Winery. Previously he worked at Cliff Lede and Terra Valentine and he interned at Colgin Estate. Ranko poured two wines on Tuesday. The 2009 and 2010 (just released) Syrah Alder Springs Vineyard, Spirit Rock. Both were very nice with excellent intensity and cool-climate Syrah typicity. [BTW, Kale is a Hawaiian moniker (Ka-le). He wasn’t named for the leafy green, so lettuce not hear any jokes about that.]

Petrichor is a great word. It refers to that aroma created by the first rain after a long dry spell. I love that smell and I was fond of the Petrichor Vineyards wines as well. They are small production (173 cases in 2010, 250 in 2011) blends of Syrah and Grenache made by Duncan Meyers of Arnot Roberts winery. The fruit comes from the Jim and Margaret Foley's estate vineyard, north of Santa Rosa. I tasted three vintages on Tuesday, each was unique and all were very good—balanced and attractively savory.

Highly Recommended Wines (and Recommended+), alphabetically by producer

2011 Cornerstone Cellars Napa Valley Syrah, Stepping Stone, $35
Flavors and aromas of black cherry, leather, black pepper, dry herb, cocoa and earth. Engaging and complex with moderate fine-grained tannins and the ability to improve for 5+ years in bottle.

2012 Cornerstone Cellars Corallina Syrah Rosé Napa Valley, Stepping Stone - see Wines to Covet above.

2010 Donelan Syrah Kobler Family Vineyard, Green Valley of Russian River Valley, $45
Lean but satisfying with savory complexity: black pepper, dark flowers, dried herb and blackberry. Medium-plus body and tannins of fine powder and chalk but—refreshingly—just 12.8% alcohol.

2010 Donelan Syrah Walker Vine Hill, Russian River Valley, $45
Yin to the Donelan Kobler Family’s yang. Ripe cherry richness, brown spice and leather reined in by moderate tannins of fine powder.

2009 Kale Syrah Alder Springs Vineyard-Spirit Rock, Mendocino County, $40
Loads of black fruit, especially black cherry, on the nose along with a grind of black pepper. Black cherry, pepper and cocoa nib on the palate of medium-plus body. Concentrated and lengthy.

2010 Kale Syrah Alder Springs Vineyard Spirit Rock, Mendocino County, $45
Cooler than 2009, the 2010 vintage tends to emphasize savory over sweet. The 2010 Kale Syrah leads with earth, leather and black pepper but there’s a backdrop of black fruit and spice. Just released this month, the wine rates Recommended+ now but a little time in bottle should bring even more goodness.

2009 Meyer Family Cellars Syrah Yorkville Highlands, $28
Game meat, sweet herb, red plum, red rope and oak are the aromas and flavors in this full-bodied wine with moderate alcohol (13.70%). Good length.

2009 Meyer Family Cellars Syrah Reserve “High Ground,” $40
The deluxe edition of Meyer’s Syrah is both darker and more savory. Earth, leather, black pepper and ripe dark fruit are mated with moderate tannins of fine powder.

2009 Petrichor Estate Les Trois Sonoma, $48
Okay, “Les Trois” is mildly confusing as this is a blend of just two grapes, Syrah and Grenache. Perhaps it refers to the triad of flavor, acidity and texture, because this wine’s got that covered. Petrichor’s inaugural release is juicy and medium-plus in body with tangy dark fruit, dry herb and spice. The tannins are moderate with the mouthfeel of fine powder and talc.

2010 Petrichor Estate Les Trois Sonoma, $48
Earthy dark fruit, spice, licorice and dry herb. Medium-plus, light-grained tannins suggest this wine has room to grow. Give it a year or two.

2011 Petrichor Estate Les Trois Sonoma, $TBD
There was some hesitation in pouring this fine for me as it’s at least eight months from release. They need not have worried though. It’s quite good, full of earthiness, spice, garrigue and black pepper. Something to look forward to.

2007 Ridge Petite Sirah Dynamite Hill Spring Mountain, $32 — see Wines to Covet above

2009 Ridge Syrah Grenache Dry Creek Valley, $32
A 50-50 blend with flavors of cherry, plum, oak and spice. Moderate tannins of light grain and talc. Try it with some tender, meaty ribs. (Recommended+)

2011 Stark Grenache Blanc Santa Ynez AVA (Saarloos Vineyard)
Some people buy Stark wines because they’re fans of the (rapdily dwindling) clan on Game of Thrones, or of Ironman. That’s cute, but the wines can stand on their own. Gentle aromas of pear, lime and white flowers. Medium+ body and a little juicy. (Recommended+)

2012 Two Shepherds Grenache Blanc Saarloos Vineyard, Santa Ynez, $35
Grenache Blanc essentially launched this brand and William Allen continues to set the bar for that variety. Focused notes of white flowers, tangy stonefruit and spice lead into a juicy palate with medium-plus body. There’s a light texture, fine and powdery, plus persistent saline minerality.

2012 Two Shepherds Marsanne Russian River Valley, $32 — see Wines to Covet above

2011 Two Shepherds Syrah Saralee’s Vineyard, Russian River Valley, $35
Syrah from the cool side: black pepper, dark cherries and garrigue. Body and tannins are medium to medium-plus with a fine, powdery texture.

Follow NorCalWine on Twitter for breaking wine news, information on events and more. Become a fan and join the NorCal Wine community on FacebookAlso check out our comprehensive Northern California winery listings. They are very useful for planning a tasting trip or just getting in touch with a winery.

This article is original to Copyright 2013 NorCal Wine. All rights reserved.


Three Quick Things - Falsified Data, Alcohol Statements and Wine Education

Thoughts on the Allegations of Falsified Data by a Medical Researcher of Red Wine and Resveratrol

I reported on this story in detail on Wednesday. At the time, my primary focus was on reporting the facts, not adding commentary. However, I find that two things — aside from the apparent fraud — continue to bother me.

UConn says the announcement is the result of the three-year investigation. Why are they just releasing information about the wrong-doing now? Was there not an earlier point when they could have acted? How much other research in that period has been based on Dr. Dipak Das’s work under the assumption that it was sound? How many funds have been plowed into further research by Das in those three years?

The second thing that irks me is that, even after the three-year investigation and warnings to 11 different peer-reviewed journals that published work by Das, UConn is not announcing which research was compromised. They say there were at least 145 instances of falsification or manufacturing of data. Which findings are now in question? Until we hear otherwise, we must assume that everything he's published is unreliable.

Illegible Labeling of Alcohol Content in Wine

800px-Magnifying_glass_with_focus_on_paperWine producers are required by United States law to disclose the alcohol percentage of a wine on each bottle. Wineries are required to submit labels for TTB approval prior to shipment. The TTB gives producers leeway of +/- 1% on the stated alcohol as compared to the actual wine. If alcohol content is between 7% and 14%, producers may omit the percentage statement and use the phrases “Table Wine” or “Light Wine” instead.

That’s all good. Except that, increasingly in my experience, wineries are making these alcohol statements so small and using ink so close in color to the paper that the statements are virtually illegible. I have good vision. It’s actually so-good-it-annoys-people-vision. Yet, even in good light, I find myself holding bottles right up to my face and squinting. In some cases, I still can’t be sure what the numbers say. For people with even slightly impaired vision, the text may as well say “up yours.”

Hey wineries who love microscopic type, you make an alcoholic product. You’re required by law to disclose alcohol content. How about following the intent of the law, not just the letter. Let us actually read the statement.

Openings for WSET Intermediate Classes

There are still a couple of seats left for WSET Intermediate classes which begin on January 19. The classes are administered by Adam Chase of Grape Experience. I’ve gone through his programs myself and highly recommend them. The classes take place at night in San Francisco’s Presidio. Contact Adam to register or for further details.

Follow NorCalWine on Twitter for breaking wine news, information on events and more. Become a fan and join the NorCal Wine community on FacebookAlso check out our comprehensive Northern California winery listings. They are very useful for planning a tasting trip or just getting in touch with a winery.

This article is original to Copyright 2012 NorCal Wine. Photo by Niabot. All rights reserved.

Tasting Report: Grace Family Vineyards at Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant

Richard Grace wants to be on a plane to Tibet tomorrow. But he won’t be. It seems the Chinese government is cracking down on foreign visitors again. His presence in Tibet could put his hosts at risk, so he will stay in Napa for now. How does this relate to a wine tasting?

When winery owners go to a tasting, they often bring a binder or portfolio. In some cases, the binder includes pictures of the vineyards or tasting room. Sometimes it has pictures of the winemaking process. Other binders have winemaker’s notes on the individual wines. What is the blend? How much new oak was used? At how many degrees brix were the grapes picked.

Dick Grace brought a binder to the tasting last night. He showed it to everyone he could.   It was full of pictures. But there was not a grape or vineyard to be seen. The pictures showed Tibetan children. It showed the poor living conditions they used to have and the run down schools. And it showed the new dormitories and beautiful schools Mr. Grace has helped build for them. It showed supporters of the Dalai Lama unfurling banners of support on the Golden Gate Bridge. And there was a photo of Dick showing THAT photo to the Dalai Lama.

Grace Family Vineyards makes some of the best wine in the world. Many people can attest to that and we will too. The wine is so sought after and made in such low volumes that at this moment there are about 4,500 people on a waiting list just to get onto the allocation list. That allocation list can only include 600 people. So if you want to try to taste the wine, you need to have a friend who already gets it. Or buy it on consignment from a store with such a friend. Or go to one of the rare public tastings as we did.

Talking Grenache Blanc

I mentioned in a previous article that Grenache Blanc seemed to be taking off as a varietal among producers of Rhone-style wines in the United States. Hospice du Rhone, which took place this past weekend left me with the same impression. This is not to say that suddenly you will see Grenache Blanc in every wine shop and on every wine list. It will be a lot easier to find than it has been in the past though.

In the southern Rhone where it is most commonly used, Grenache Blanc is typically used in blends. It's flavors of citrus and herb add further complexity and, if properly grown, acidity to  Marsanne and Roussanne juice. When allowed to grow with abandon however, the Grenache Blanc can be flabby and high in alcohol. In the U.S., the variety is also used in some blends, such as the Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc and Cote de Tablas Blanc from Tablas Creek Vineyards. Thoses wines are intended to be Californian versions of a Chateauneuf du Pape white wine.

As with any other grape , Grenache Blanc changes in character depending on how and where it is grown. As Larry Schaeffer of Tercero Wines points out in the video below, Central Coast Grenache Blanc can have more acidty and create a wine that can be very enjoyable on it's own, young or aged. if you haven't tried any yet, I encourage you to do so. You might find it to be an interesting change of pace from the ubiquitous Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. If you'd like to try one, I recommend the Grenache Blanc varietal wines from Tercero, Tablas Creek, Anglim Winery and Clavo Cellars.

[This was filmed at the big tasting at Hospice du Rhone 2010, sorry about the background noise]

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Follow NorCalWine on Twitter for breaking wine news, information on events and more. Become a fan and join the NorCal Wine community on FacebookAlso check outour comprehensive Northern California winery listings. They are very useful for planning a tasting trip or just getting in touch with a winery.

This article is original to Copyright 2010 NorCal Wine. All rights reserved.