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NorCal Wine Blog

Tasting Report: 14th Annual Mt. Veeder Appellation Tasting

Despite intense morning rains, the turnout for Saturday’s Mt. Veeder AVA tasting at Hess Collection Winery was excellent. The outdoor event was saved by good preparation and hard work—organizers stretched a multitude of tarps over the arbor—and by good timing. Torrential downpour became random sprinkles as soon as corks were pulled.

And there was plenty of corks to pull. 28 wineries participated, most pouring multiple wines. Cabernet Sauvignon and related blends were the most common offering, but Syrah, Chardonnay and several other varieties—even Pinot Noir—were represented.

Overall quality was very high with most wines falling into my Highly Recommended range. As was the case last year, reds showed considerable diversity due to the Mt. Veeder AVA’s complex nature. A multiplicity of soils, facings and slopes means no two growing areas are alike. The rugged topography makes large, contiguous vineyards nearly impossible too.

Climate unites Mt. Veeder’s scattered growing areas. High altitude and relative proximity to the ocean results in one of the highest rainfall AVAs in Napa Valley. Similarly, the warm days are moderated by regular daytime breezes and cold nighttime air.

Three common threads appear in the red wines: medium+ body, elegant ripeness with cool-climate accents and, most obviously, structure of fine-grained or fine powdery tannins. This is consistent across varieties. While that makes abbreviated tasting notes seem repetitive, the typicity is welcome and reflects refreshingly light-handed winemaking.

Mt. Veeder is also yielding very attractive white wines. The fruit is always ripe and the wines never mean, but most are perky and supple. Chardonnay works well, as does Hess’ Albariño. An experimental, under-the-table Marsanne/Roussanne from a producer that shall not be named was very appealing. I’d like to see more of that in the future, and perhaps Grenache Blanc.

I asked Yannick Rousseau whether the day’s rain would have any adverse effects on Mt. Veeder’s 2013 vintage. He didn’t think so. White wine grapes have been harvested already and most reds need a couple more weeks on the vine, enough time to dry out. If there’s a risk, it would be for ripe Zinfandel.

2010 OShaughnessy Cabernet Sauvignon Mt. VeederWines of the Mt. Veeder Appellation Tasting

The wineries at the tasting were presented in reverse alphabetical order this year to give the back-of-the-alphabet folks a break. I’ve done the same here. Due to flow of the crowd, I tasted from both ends toward the middle. Regrettably, that meant I missed out on Mayacamas and Meadowcroft.

Y. Rousseau 2010 Chardonnay Milady Mount Veeder, $36
A great way to start the day: lemon, green and yellow apples, baking spice and a spray of white flowers. Lovely balance of fruit and acidity. Highly Recommended.

Y. Rousseau 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Le Roi Soleil Mount Veeder, $65
Medium+ body and tannins (fine-grained) with attractive flavors of black currant, blackberry, cocoa, spice and dark flowers. Lengthy. Highly Recommended.

2012 Yates Family Viognier Mount Veeder, $38
Rich with sweet honeysuckle and nectarine. Very long finish. Recommended+

2009 Yates Family Alden Perry Reserve Red Blend Mount Veeder, $65
Dusty black currant, spice, chocolate, oak and vanilla. Fine-grained tannins. Recommended+

2010 Vinoce Cabernet Franc Mount Veeder, $60
Oak, dusty and spicy fruit, tobacco leaf. Moderate fine-grained tannins. Recommended.

2010 Vinoce Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder, $75
Dry herb, dark fruit and spices, oak. Medium+ body and tannins (fine talc). Recommended.

2006 Veedercrest Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder, $125
Veedercrest ages their Cab for 48 months in French oak and two years in bottle before release. Very chocolatey with cedar, red cherry, oak and coconut. Medium+ length. Highly Recommended.

2009 Trinchero Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Cloud’s Nest Vineyard Mount Veeder, $70
Ripe dark berries, cocoa, spice and oak flavors with medium+ body and tannins (light powder). Long finish. Highly Recommended.

2011 Spotted Owl Chardonnay Mount Veeder, $45
Lightly-textured with medium to medium+ body and flavors of poached pear and spice. Recommended.  

2011 Spotted Owl Pinot Noir Mount Veeder, $50
Pinot Noir wouldn’t be in my top ten expected red wines from Mt. Veeder, but I’d be happy to drink this nonetheless. Earth, brown spice, red cherry and toast flavors with body and fine tannins just north of medium. Medium+ finish. Highly Recommended.

2008 Spotted Owl Syrah Alexandra’s Cuvée Mount Veeder, $45
A nicely balanced Syrah of medium+ body with minty black fruit. Highly Recommended.

2009 Spotted Owl Cabernet/Syrah Mountain Cuvée Mount Veeder, $45
Black currant and cocoa flavors with medium+ body and fine-grained tannins. Very good length. Highly Recommended.

2009 Spotted Owl Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder, $85
A savory, earthy Cabernet with black currant and cherry, spice and dry herb. Medium+ body with loads of fine-grained tannins. Well-balanced, flavorful and very long. Very Highly Recommended.

2010 Rubissow Merlot Mount Veeder, $38
Medium+ body and tannins of light powder. Flavors include minty, dark red cherry, herb and vanilla. Recommended+.

2010 Rubissow Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder, $60
Full-bodied with plenty of fine, powdery tannins. Nicely ripe black currant, dry herb and cocoa. Highly Recommended+.

2007 Rubissow Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder, $125
Built for cellaring and a little tight on the nose now, the flavors are a good balance of oak, black fruit and dark flowers. Medium+ body and tannins, long finish. Very Highly Recommended.

2005 Robert Craig Cabernet Sauvignon, inquire at the winery
Cedar, red currant and currant leaf. Nearly full-bodied with matching tannins of fine grain and chalk. Long. Highly Recommended+.

2010 Robert Craig Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder, $70
Almost full-bodied with plenty of fine-grained, drying tannins. Ripe blackberry, black cherry, vanilla, sweet spice and caramel. Medium+ length that will gain generosity as the tannins resolve. Highly Recommended+.

2005 Renteria Cabernet Sauvignon Tambor Vineyard Mount Veeder, $120 (1.5 liter)
Highly aromatic with notes of cedar, black currant and forest spice. Medium+ body and fine, mouth-coating tannins. Long and well-balanced through. Very Highly Recommended.

2007 Renteria Cabernet Sauvignon Tambor Vineyard Mount Veeder, $50
Outgoing, ripe red and black cherries, spice and vanilla. Nearly full-bodied with medium+ fine, mouth-coating tannins and notable acidity. Very highly Recommended.

2008 Renteria Cabernet Sauvignon Tambor Vineyard Mount Veeder, $50
Black cherry, sweet oak and spice in a nearly full-bodied wine with medium+ tannins (fine, mouth-coating) balanced by acidity. Highly Recommended.

2007 Random Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon (25% Cab Franc) Mount Veeder, $50
Medium+ body, loaded with a mix of fine, light and chalky tannins. Cedar, red and black currants and blueberries. Medium+ length. Cellar or grill a rib eye. Recommended+.

2009 Random Ridge Forunata Sangiovese (and a splash of Cab) Mount Veeder, $35
Minty dark fruit, tangy red cherry, dried rosemary and spice. Medium+ body and tannins (drying, fine grain and powder). Medium length. Decant or cellar. Highly Recommended.

2007 Progeny Cabernet Sauvignon Special Selection Reserve Mount Veeder, $150
A powerful, nearly full-bodied wine with a wealth of fine and light-grained, drying tannins. Oak dominates the black fruit and spice now but will fall into balance with the cellar time this wine deserves. Long finish. Very Highly Recommended.

2009 Paratus Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder, $70
Plush black currant, oak, spice and resinous herb. Just about full-bodied with corresponding tannins (fine-grained and drying). For the cellar. Highly Recommended.

2010 O’Shaughnessy Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder, $100
Full of delicious ripe and tart black currant, spice, sweet herb, oak and chocolate. Medium+ body and surprisingly fresh with scads of fine, drying tannins. Quite long. Very Highly Recommended+.

2009 Mount Veeder Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Elevation 1,550 Mount Veeder, $80
Earthy spice, forest floor, dry herb, black cherry and cocoa. Medium+ body and drying tannins of fine-grain and talc. Highly Recommended.

2009 Mount Veeder Winery Reserve Red Wine (96% Cabernet) Mount Veeder, $80
Medium+ body and fine-powdery tannins. Flavors of earthy spice and very ripe black currant. Recommended+

2010 Mt. Brave Malbec Mount Veeder, $75
Malbec built in a Cabernet style with bold flavors of earth, spice and caramel surrounding a core of lively purple fruit and blue berries. Nearly full-bodied with fine-grained and talc-like tannins. Strikes a balance of friendliness and structure. Highly Recommended.

2010 Mt. Brave Merlot Mount Veeder, $75
Luscious earthy spice, licorice and dark fruit. Medium+ body and tannins with very good length. (The wine was decanted for four hours.) Very Highly Recommended.

2010 Mt. Brave Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder, $75
A powerful yet balanced wine with dark, earthy spice, plum and black currant. Nearly full-bodied with fine-grained tannins. (The wine was decanted for four hours.) Very Highly Recommended.

2009 Mithra Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder, $230
Full-bodied, rich and delicious with spicy dark fruit and fine-grained tannins. Very Highly Recommended.

Meadowcroft - Not tasted

Mayacamas Vineyards - Not tasted

2006 Marketta Chardonnay Mount Veeder, $36
A delightful Chardonnay with medium+ body, light-grained texture and flavors of smokey mineral, pear, toast and lemon oil. Highly Recommended.

2006 Marketta Red Blend (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec) Mount Veeder, $85
How did a Bordeaux get into a Mt. Veeder tasting? Spice and black currant with feral overtones and fine-grained tannins. Medium+ body. Very Highly Recommended.

2012 Marketta Chardonnay Mount Veeder, $36
To be bottled in two months: Spicy baked apple, dried lemongrass and just-ripe pear. Full-bodied. Highly Recommended.

2009 Lampyridae Communication Block Red Wine Mount Veeder, $50
A Syrah/Cabernet blend showing chocolate, black currant, blackberry and oak with medium+ body. Recommended.

2010 Lampyridae Communication Block Red Wine Mount Veeder, $50
Aaron Pott took on the winemaking in 2010 and this cuvée is also 100% Syrah. A gorgeous wine with earthy spice, white pepper and leathery dark fruit. Medium+ body with moderate, fine-grained and talc-like tannins. Very Highly Recommended.

2010 Lampyridae Communication Block Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder, $100
Dark spice, earth and black currant. Medium+ body and tannins (fine-grained) and length. Highly Recommended.

2010 Lagier Meredith Syrah Mount Veeder, $48
Disciplined but flavorful with plum, dark berries, dusty earth and white pepper. Medium+ body and drying tannins of fine-grain and talc. Medium+ length. Will be even better with decanting or age. Highly Recommended+.

2011 Lagier Meredith Tribidrag Mount Veeder, $4
Zinfandel by any other name would taste as sweet. And Tribidrag is, in fact, another name for Zinfandel. Black pepper, dark berries and a hint of peach on the nose. Medium+ body, moderate talc-like tannins and a lengthy finish. Highly Recommended+.

2012 Lagier Meredith Rosé Mount Veeder, $20
Crisp peach, pear and fresh berries. Recommended+.

2012 Hess Pinot Gris Small Block Series Mount Veeder, $28
Nearly full-bodied with apple, pear, baking spice and nectarine. Long, tasty finish. Recommended+

2012 Hess Albariño Small Block Series Mount Veeder, $28
Grapefruit, nectarine, spice and white flowers. Mouthwatering. Highly Recommended.

2009 Hess Collection 19 Block Cuvée Mount Veeder, $40
A complex blend of Bordeaux varieties delivering spice dark berries and black currant, chocolate and oak with medium+ tannins (fine grain and talc). Recommended+

2010 Hess Collection Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder, $55
Leafy black currants and spice. Medium+ body, fine-grained and chalky tannins. Recommended.

2010 Godspeed Vineyards Chardonnay Mount Veeder, $30
Straight-forward but pleasant with ripe yellow apple and baking spice.

2006 Godspeed Vineyards Trinity (Malbec, Cabernet & Syrah) Mount Veeder, $45
Resinous dark fruit and spice.

2008 Godspeed Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder, $50
Black fruit and cocoa with drying, fine-grained tannins. Recommended

2009 Foyt Family Wines No. 77 Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder, $85

2011 Fontanella Chardonnay Mount Veeder, $34
Green pears and spice, medium acidity. Recommended+

2010 Fontanella Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder, $54
Black fruit, dark spice and oak. Well-structured with fine-grained and chalky tannins. Lengthy. Recommended+.

2009 Fields Family Cabernet Sauvignon Dr. Konrad’s Vineyard Mount Veeder, $59
Full-bodied with light-grained and chalky tannins. Spicy, wild blackberry flavors and surprising acidity. Highly Recommended.

2010 Fields Family Cabernet Sauvignon Dr. Konrad’s Vineyard, barrel sample
Almost full-body with light-grained tannins. Cocoa, spice, black currant and currant leaf. Highly Recommended.

2010 Chateau Potelle Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder, $75
Spice, black fruit and medium+ body and fine-grained tannins. Recommended+.

2010 Chateau Potelle Cabernet Franc Mount Veeder, $39 (375ml)
Almost cologne-like masculine aromas of exotic and foresty spice hover around a core of dark red cherries. Medium+ body with substantial, fine-grained tannins. Highly Recommended.

2010 Chateau Potelle Merlot Mount Veeder, $39
Leafy and spice with tangy red fruit. Medium+ body, fine-grained and chalky tannins. Recommended.

2009 Anthem Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder, $95
Spice, underbrush and dark fruit. Medium+ body with drying, fine-grained tannins. Recommended.


Follow NorCalWine on Twitter for breaking wine news, information on events and more. Become a fan and join the NorCal Wine community on FacebookAlso check out our comprehensive Northern California winery listings. They are very useful for planning a tasting trip or just getting in touch with a winery.

This article is original to Copyright 2013 NorCal Wine. All rights reserved.

New Research: How Our Brains Categorize Aromas

You smell. I do too. Scientists can’t tell us precisely how though.

The physical structures that allow us to sense aromas are well-known, but the way we parse and categorize olfactory information is much less clear. Our sense of smell isn’t connected to the brain through the same pathways as our visual, auditory and tactile sensors. It’s not even connected to the same part of the brain.

A trio of researchers has just published a paper that may improve our understanding slightly. The study is called Categorical Dimensions of Human Odor Descriptor Space Revealed by Non-Negative Matrix Factorization. It’s authors are Jason B. Castro, Arvind Ramanthan and Chakra S. Chennubhotla—a neuroscientist, a computational scientist and an expert in computational and systems biology.

As you may have gathered from the title, it’s written for researchers and experts not the general interest reader. The article assumes considerable prior knowledge, is replete with specialized terminology and features several pages of text such as “we first examined the structure of H, the matrix of odor weights obtained from NMF (recall that H corresponds to an odor), and defines a point in 10-dimensional descriptor spaced spanned by W.” The paper is freely available online though, so you might read it skim it look at the colored charts.

Here’s the gist of it:
As we pick up an aroma, our brain rapidly identifies a number of attributes for the scent. Unlike our sense of taste which we know to resolve just five flavor dimensions (sour, sweet, salty, bitter and umami), there are many potential attributes for smell. They have not been fully identified, prioritized or explained. And the number of these dimensions for any particular aroma is very large which makes analyzing or categorizing the totality of an aroma extremely complex.

The authors applied mathematical algorithms, used in other areas of science to simplify complex, multi-dimensional data, to olfaction. This enabled them to do two things. First, it proved that this particular analytical approach [non-negative matrix factorization] is effective with respect to analysis of smells. Second, the researchers were able to identify what appear to be the ten principal qualities or categories of aromas, each category linked to a number of molecules that generate such aromatics.

These basic categories each have many incarnations but, for simple identification, might be labeled by their most prominent members: fragrant/floral, woody/resinous, fruity (non-citrus), putrid/decayed, chemical, minty/peppermint, sweet, popcorn, pungent and lemon/citrus. Here’s a table showing those categories and the most important members of each.

If you’ve seen wine aroma wheels or aroma categories used by sommeliers or WSET, then the table will look quite familiar. There are interesting differences though. For example, citrus and non-citrus fruit are clearly delineated but non-citrus such as cherry, pineapple and banana are all in the same category. There is also overlap. Cut grass falls into woody/resinous but also citrus. Some attributes are more general characteristics than analogs to physical objects. For example, floral, citrus, sweet and fruity categories can all result in an aroma being described as “light.”

10 vectors
From Categorical Dimensions of Human Odor Descriptor Space Revealed by Non-Negative Matrix Factorization

Further studies using this mathematical technique may break a lot more ground for industries such as wine and perfume. The current analysis was based on a standard set of aromas used by researchers. It may not have included specific notes of interest to us, like oak and aspects of minerality. And it clearly wasn’t a goal to prioritize wine-centric aromas in any way.

I look forward to follow up efforts. Better understanding how our brains naturally categorize wine-related aromas will help us become better analytical tasters. It will also guide us in communicating aromas to consumers in the way they will most readily grasp.


Follow NorCalWine on Twitter for breaking wine news, information on events and more. Become a fan and join the NorCal Wine community on FacebookAlso check out our comprehensive Northern California winery listings. They are very useful for planning a tasting trip or just getting in touch with a winery.

This article is original to Copyright 2013 NorCal Wine. All rights reserved.

Upcoming Wine Events for September 20 - 23

Celebrate Grenache Day with the North Coast Rhone Rangers in Healdsburg—Friday, 3-7pm

rhone rangers logoJust 33 tickets remain for this intimate but lively celebration of Grenache at the Stark tasting room in downtown Healdsburg. Eleven wineries will be pouring various incarnations of Grenache, one of California’s most celebrated grapes these days. Look for blends and rosés as well as varietal Grenache Noir and Grenache Blanc from a range of appellations.

Tickets are just $15 in advance, a killer deal. Be sure to RSVP for the after-party when you buy your tickets too. There’ll be live music and wine for sale by the glass, but attendance is limited to just 50 people.

Mount Veeder Appellation Tasting at Hess Collection Winery in Napa—Saturday, 1-4pm

The Mt. Veeder AVA is often, but undeservedly, overlooked in discussions about the best wines of Napa Valley. It’s a truly unique growing region with distinctive wines. This tasting brings together most producers of wine from the region. There will be delicious Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Syrah, Zinfandel, Malbec, Zinfandel, Albariño and more.

In addition to the wine, there’ll be food prepared by Hess Collection Winery’s executive chef and live music. And bring a hat, the tastings are typically outside under the arbor.

Los Gatos Fall Wine Walk in downtown/Old Town Los Gatos—Saturday, 1:30-5:30

Taste wines from more than 40 wineries, sample food from local restaurants and enjoy live music in lovely Los Gatos. Tickets are $40 and include a wine glass. Online sales close at 11pm on September 19 (unless the event sells out sooner).

California Pinot Noir tasting at Beltramo’s in Menlo Park—Saturday, 2:30-5:30pm

Taste nine Pinot Noir some of California’s most celebrated vineyards made by very good, artisanal producers. The cost is $37. Advance tickets are not required.
Beltramo’s: 1540 El Camino Real, Menlo Park 94025

Wines currently scheduled for tasting are:
2007 Greg Linn Pinot Noir, Rim Rock Vineyard, San Luis Obispo County
2007 Arcadian Pinot Noir, Sleepy Hollow Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands
2010 Waits-Mast Pinot Noir, Londer Vineyard, Anderson Valley
2010 Waits-Mast Pinot Noir, Oppenlander Vineyard, Anderson Valley
2011 Deovlet Pinot Noir Santa Barbara County
2011 Deovlet Pinot Noir, La Encantada Vineyard, Sta. Rita Hills
2011 Sandhi Pinot Noir, Sanford & Benedict Vineyard, Sta. Rita Hills
2011 Daniel Pinot Noir, Soberanes Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands
2011 Daniel Pinot Noir, Sierra Mar Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands


Follow NorCalWine on Twitter for breaking wine news, information on events and more. Become a fan and join the NorCal Wine community on FacebookAlso check out our comprehensive Northern California winery listings. They are very useful for planning a tasting trip or just getting in touch with a winery.

This article is original to Copyright 2013 NorCal Wine. All rights reserved.

Building Brands for a Winery and Region Simultaneously - Goodland Wines

Last week I wrote about brands, brand building and the difficulty of doing that in the wine business. One of the big challenges is that the very thing which makes wine so compelling—it’s complexity and variability from one place, vintage or winemaker to the next—disallows the consistency that many consumers need to develop brand affinity. A second issue is that “sub-brands,” such as varietal or regional designations, provide important information but can also detract from the strength of the main brand.

For example, a typical consumer may think all Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon are pretty much alike and purchase in that category based on price rather than winery brand. Or consumers may prefer to buy any New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, even if they’ve not tasted it, over any Happy Canyon Sauvignon Blanc regardless of winery name. The former has a powerful brand against which any Sauvignon Blanc must compete for attention no matter how different the style.

One way to eliminate these problematic comparisons is to avoid mention of the varietal. If you have a very good and unique Sauvignon Blanc from Happy Canyon, just call it a Happy Canyon White Wine. You still need to build your own brand, and that of Happy Canyon, but you won’t be doing it in the shadow of New Zealand. This is exactly the approach Goodland is taking in Santa Barbara County.

Goodland is a new producer in that region. It’s essentially a four-partner company. Matt Dees is best known as winemaker for Jonata but has also did work at Staglin and Craggy Range. Dave Potter makes wine and works the room for Municipal Wines in Santa Barbara. Ruben Solorzano, affectionately called “the grape whisperer,” is a very highly respected vineyard manager who tends many plots in Santa Barbara County. He lives in the middle of Stolpman Vineyard which he’s managed since 1994. Chris Snowden has worked in cellar management and sales at various wineries, including his family’s Snowden Vineyards in Napa Valley.

When I first heard about their project I was skeptical. Buyers of California wine are accustomed to buying on a varietal basis. Few of those buyers know much about California’s wine regions either, or even what an appellation is. Beyond Napa Valley, Russian River Valley, Paso Robles and two or three others, AVAs are a total mystery to the average wine drinker. Most will think of Santa Barbara County as the place where the town of Santa Barbara is, not a place that good wine comes from.

The idea of launching a wholly new wine brand in Santa Barbara County with labels that refer only to region, not varietal, seemed masochistic to me. I thought it more likely to confuse customers than help them. I anticipated a difficult sales job. But the more I consider the situation, the smarter it seems.

First, production quantities at Goodland are small. They are unlikely to get stuck with inventory. Goodland’s highest volume wine is just 81 cases.

Second, the pricing is moderate. Matt Dees and Ruben Solorzano told me they want to makes wine they and their friends can afford to buy. Bottles range from $15 to $40. That’s high enough to allay concerns that the somewhat generic names signal. On-premise prices can stay below $50 for whites and $100 for reds.

Third, they are avoiding those troublesome comparisons with other wine regions’ varietals. Goodland needn’t compete as directly against Russian River Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc or Napa Valley Cabernet. Nor do they have to deal with Syrah’s cursed brand.

For more detail, please watch this video interview I did with Matt Dees and Ruben Solorzano.


Tasting Notes for Goodland wines, tasted on August 12, 2013

2011 Goodland Sta. Rita Hills White Wine, $35
Chardonnay is far and away the most-planted white wine grape in the Sta. Rita Hills AVA. Matt Dees fermented this one in neutral barrels and allowed little to no malolactic fermentation. The lees were stirred every two or three days. The Goodland Sta. Rita Hills White is elegant and complex on nose and palate with ripe lemon-lime, dry grass, green apple skin, baking spice and accents of stone fruit. Medium-plus body and acidity, lengthy finish. Highly Recommended.



2011 Goodland Happy Canyon White, $25
Happy Canyon is, relative to Sta. Rita Hills, quite warm. It’s still a bit cooler than Oakville though. Hot days and radically cooler mights make it a happy canyon for Sauvignon Blanc. With stainless steel fermentation and no malolactic fermentation, this wine is a study in fresh citrus and acidity. The nose shows lime, grapefruit and mineral. The very fresh, medium-bodied palate has fine-grained texture and adds flavors of green apple and tart stone fruit to the persistent citrus and minerality. Lengthy finish. Highly Recommended.





2011 Sta. Rita Hills Red, $40
While not as dominant in the Sta. Rita Hills for red wines as Chardonnay is for white, Pinot Noir is still the AVA’s signature red grape. 2010 was arguably the coldest growing season that always cool appellation has seen. However, 2011 wasn’t much warmer and lacked the late season heat spike that provided a final push to ripeness in 2010. Goodland’s Pinot Noir comes is lithe and flavorful but just 12.2% alcohol. Earthy red fruit—especially cherry—brown spice, savory herb, cherry stem, smoke and dried orange zest. The palate is finely textured and sophisticated with medium body and medium-plus length. Highly Recommended.



2010 Santa Ynez Valley Red Wine, $25
This Syrah/Grenache blend was the first wine in the Goodland project. Dees said he was looking for a fruit-driven wine of density, not worrying about representing a single variety. It’s ripe and slightly earthy with plum and other black fruit, dark spice and partially dried herb. The palate adds elements of dark chocolate, smoke and old leather. The light-grained tannins and body are just short of medium-plus, the finish lengthy. Highly Recommended.



2011 Happy Canyon Red Wine, $40
While Goodland looks to build awareness for Santa Barbara County’s appellations and wine styles, they aren’t afraid to dance on the edge. When it comes to this Cabernet Sauvignon for example, they went old-school (late 70’s Napa) rather than building a fleshy, hedonistic wine. In Happy Canyon, that meant going high-elevation. There you have not only the big—up to 50 degrees—diurnal temperature shift but also howling winds that limit bunch count, berry size and ripening. Highly Recommended.

Dees told me the grapes for this wine were tiny and it took a couple days of foot stomping to get the juice out. In the glass, it’s what Dees called “dusty, herbal and angular in the best way possible.” I found plenty of fruit, but it’s not even in the same universe as jammy.

Dry forest floor and herb, spice, trail dust, dried flowers, red currant and cherry on the nose. Medium-plus body, acidity and tannins (fine-grained and powdery). Flavors match the aromas but add cocoa and black olive to the mix. The finish is quite long. Decanting will be beneficial as will extended cellar aging.



2011 Ballard Canyon Red Wine, $35
“Ballard Canyon is like [the porridge that’s just right in Goldilocks and] the Three Bears, not too cold and not too hot,” Dees says. “And it’s got that hint of corruption than makes Syrah so cool.” I was the one that came away corrupted though. The 2011 Ballard Canyon Red has a split personality but both are beguiling.

Aromatically, it is floral with high-toned spice and purple fruit, leading me to expect a slender palate framed by acid. But no, it’s a nearly full-bodied wine with moderate acidity but a wealth of fine-powdery and talc-like tannins. The flavors of mocha, leather and lush black fruit and just delicious. Very Highly Recommended.


Follow NorCalWine on Twitter for breaking wine news, information on events and more. Become a fan and join the NorCal Wine community on FacebookAlso check out our comprehensive Northern California winery listings. They are very useful for planning a tasting trip or just getting in touch with a winery.

This article is original to Copyright 2013 NorCal Wine. All rights reserved.

Chardonnay and Botrytis

Typically when we think of botrytis, it’s with respect to Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon or Chenin Blanc. When "noble rot" comes together with those grapes, the result can be some of the world’s very best dessert wines, including Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese, Sauternes and Quarts de Chaume. Chardonnay is less vulnerable to botrytis than those varieties, but it’s not impervious.

I spied noble rot hiding in scattered Chardonnay bunches while touring some vineyards just before harvest began this year. Fortunately, botrytized Chardonnay provides attractive flavors. And, since the amount of affected grapes in any one block or vineyard is typically quite low, the bunches with botrytis can be fermented with unaffected grapes and the resulting wine will still be dry and very much a typical Chardonnay. Some winemakers appreciate the added complexity botrytis provides. Others instruct pickers to leave afflicted bunches on the vine or simply remove them or  specific berries during sorting.

Botrytis on a Chardonnay bunch about two weeks before harvest.  Photo: Fred Swan, August 2013

A magnification of the same botrytized Chardonnay bunch. Photo: Fred Swan, August 2013

While botrytized grapes make their way into both dry Chardonnay and traditional sparkling wines, some vintners do produce late-harvest Chardonnay dessert wines. The ones I’ve tried were quite sweet and full-bodied but retained plenty of acidity. Flavors included ripe apple, peach, nectarine, pineapple and spice, plus botrytis’ own signature notes. The most recent bottles I enjoyed were from Sonoma Coast Vineyards. I highly recommend those, but they’re not on the standard list of available wines so you’ll need to contact the winery for availability.


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