The 2010 Pinot Days Grand Tasting was held on June 27 at Fort Mason in San Francisco. More than 212 wineries were on hand pouring their Pinot Noir wines. I would be surprised if there were fewer than 1,000 wines available to taste.
I allocated most of my time to several wineries whose wines have impressed me in the past. I also took some time to try wineries who’s wines I’d not tried previously. In the end, I tasted more than 70 wines. Overall, I was extremely impressed with the quality of the wines, even given the fact that I had been selective in my tasting. Of all the wines I tasted.
Smoke taint in the 2008 vintage due to the massive forest fires in parts of Mendocino County and Sonoma County has been widely discussed. Several of the wineries I spoke to at the event chose not to make 2008 wines from certain areas. Other producers were extremely selective with the fruit and therefore have less wine available, though 2008 was a very productive year in some vineyards which somewhat mitigated the loss of fruit to smoke. None of the wines I tasted had any smoke influence which I considered to be a flaw.
The following is a list of those wines I tried and thought to be among the best. The list is in alphabetical order within each section. I only tasted a fraction of the wines on offer, so the absence of a wine or winery from this list should not be taken as a negative.
Very Highly Recommended 2007 DeLoach Vineyards Pinot Noir Green Valley
At the tasting, I wasn't taking the time to ask for prices and individual wines were not listed in the tasting guide which was given out. However, I did not the price for the 2006 Suacci Carciere because they were offering it at a Pinot Days discount for $30 per bottle. They only had 15 cases left at the time, one of which a friend and I bought. If you'd like to get in on the last of that wine, the winery will extend the same $30 price to you. Just mention that you heard about the wine here. (Note: I'm not compensated in any way for mentioning this deal, I just think it's something you may enjoy.)
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The Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant in San Francisco’s Ferry Building consistently offers interesting and enjoyable wine tasting events. While there’s a natural, and laudable, emphasis on local wineries, plenty of the events are focused on imports as well. Either the winemaker or winery owner is present at each of the events to go from table to table greeting people and talking about the wines. You should definitely try to attend some of these tastings, if you haven’t done so already.
Last night’s tasting was focused on wines made by Karen Culler. Ms. Culler’s first winemaking experiences were as a child, destemming grapes for her father and grandfather who were home winemakers in Ohio. She went on to get a degree in Botany and Agronomy from Ohio State University and then, after spending a year working at Columbia Winery in Washington, headed to U.C. Davis where she earned a Master’s Degree in Viticulture and Enology. After getting her Master’s, she went to work at Robert Mondavi Winery for two years and then moved to Vichon Winery which was also owned by Mondavi. During her tenth year at Vichon, their line of Napa Valley wines was discontinued. So, in 1997, Karen Culler set off on her own, founding Culler Wines.
Today, Karen Culler makes just under 1,000 cases of wine for her own labels, Culler Wines and Casaeda, and serves as winemaker for several other Napa Valley labels including Ladera, Wolf Family, Renteria and Rivera. Yesterday’s tasting included five wines, though I managed to sneak a taste of a sixth. Ms. Culler was on hand to talk about the wines, wineries and vineyards, as were Jane and Doug Wolf of Wolf Family Vineyards and that company’s general manager, Melinda Kearney. All of the wines were very good. My tasting notes are below.
2006 Culler La Palette Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, $50 Almost opaque ruby, leaning to purple with a narrow pale rim and colorless legs, this wine has an inviting nose of black currant, brown spice and wood. The body is medium plus as are the slightly powdery tannins which kick in at mid palate. Excellent Cabernet Sauvignon flavors of black currant, black cherry, dark chocolate, cedar and spice carry through the generous finish along with the tannins and some warming alcohol. 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot, all from Alexander Ranch. Decant to drink now or hold through 2016. Highly Recommended.
2006 Culler Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain Napa Valley, $65 Bright and nearly opaque ruby with a thin pale rim and colorless legs. The medium plus nose entices with aromas of dusty black currant, dark chocolate powder and herb. The palate is rich and almost creamy with talc-like tannins and bold flavors of black currant, briary blackberry, dark chocolate, dried leaves and mint. The tannins are prominent but well balanced by the fruit and acidity. The finish is long. A structured wine that will age well but is delicious now. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Ladera Vineyard. Aged 20 months in 50% new French oak. Just 65 cases were made. Drink now through 2020. Very Highly Recommended.
2007 Casaeda Syrah Sonoma, $20 This is another bright, nearly opaque ruby purple wine with a thin pale rim, but it’s legs are heavily pigmented. The nose announces “Syrah” with notes of black pepper, plum, prune, game and leather. The palate is chewy and structured yet smooth and brimming with black pepper, spicy blackberry, chocolate and espresso. There’s enough acidity to complement braised or seared meat but also a very long finish which you might like to savor on it’s own. 78% Sonoma Coast Syrah and 22% Howell Mountain Malbec. A remarkable deal at just $20. 234 cases were made. Drink now through 2015. Highly Recommended.
2007 Wolf Family Cabernet Sauvignon Phaedrus Napa Valley, $40 Bright ruby and fully opaque with a narrow pale rim and colorless legs. The nose is medium plus with focused black currant and currant leaf. The palate exhibits a deft balance of the medium plus tannins and alcohol with prominent, winning flavors of black currant, cocoa powder, black cherry and coffee. A blend of Malbec, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. 524 cases produced. Drink now through 2015. Highly Recommended.
2006 Wolf Family Cabernet Franc Napa Valley, $60 Bright, opaque ruby with a thin pale rim and colorless legs. Alluring black currant on the nose with more cassis and dark cherry with coffee on the palate. Beautifully textured with lightly chewy tannins, mouthwatering acidity and a long finish. 95% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon from the estate vineyard that lies in St. Helena between Dean & DeLuca and the hills. 122 cases made. Drink now through 2020. Very Highly Recommended.
2009 Culler Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley, $NA Clear and bright, light lemon in color, this is not one of those Sauvignon Blancs that is trying to offer Chardonnay body, but neither is it in your face with tart, aggressive fruit. It is medium minus in body and does lean toward high acidity but remains soft and pretty on the palate. Gentle aromas and flavors of stone fruit with a light touch of vanilla. Drink now through 2011. Recommended.
Disclosures: I paid for my tasting samples, except for the Sauvignon Blanc which was poured for me by the distributor who had opened it for some trade folks with whom I shared my table. These wines were not tasted blind.
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A lot of wine events these days include silent auctions. These auctions typically help sustain the non-profit organizations putting on the event and are therefore quite important. And sometimes you can get a good deal on some very nice and/or unique wine in the auctions.
The downside of silent auctions is right in their name. They are silent. And, unless you're engaged in a passive-aggressive bidding war with some guy who keeps upping the ante on the lot you really want, most of these auctions are pretty boring.
Hospice du Rhone is never boring. Even it's auctions are exciting. The lots are unique and super-sized. The auction is also totally non-silent. We're talking a live auction run by a real, live, fast-talking, quick-witted livestock auctioneer with a team of guys pointing, encouraging, and yelling "Hah!" every time someone bids. To make things even more exciting, the auction takes place after a lunch during which multiple bottles of wine sit on every table and are poured freely. The wine continues to flow during the auction.
If you would like a little taste of the Hospice du Rhone auction action, watch this video featuring auctioneer Todd Ventura from this year's event:
Here's a list of this year's auction lots and the prices they sold for: Lot 1: (the girl and the) fig Weekend for Four Hands-on cooking or Salumi class with Chef John Toulze Wine dinner at the girl and the fig Wine dinner at ESTATE Brunch at the fig café Magnum of Tres Bonnes Annees Syrah Winery visits arranged by Sondra Bernstein Sold for $5,000.
Lot 2: Jonata vertical in magnum 2004 - 2007 Syrah La Sangre de Jonata Sold for $1,400
Lot 3: Domaine Francois Villard, 3 magnums each 2007 Saint Joseph Rouge Reflet 2007 Saint Joseph Rouge Mairlant 2007 Cote Rotie Le Gallet Blanc 2007 Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes Sold for $5,500
Lot 4: Torbreck 2005 The Struie, 3 liter 2005 RunRig, 3 liter 2005 The Steading, 3 liter 2005 Descendant, 3 liter Sold for $4,600
Lot 7: Boulevard Restaurant Dinner for Four Four-course dinner 2005 Chateau Grillet 2007 Chateau de Beaucastel Blanc “VV” 2007 Saxum, James Berry Vineyard 2007 Clos de Papes, Chateauneuf du Pape 1995 Guigal La Mouline Sold for $5,000
Lot 9: Domaine Mathilde et Yves Gangloff 2004 Condrieu, one magnum 2006 Condrieu, one magnum 2005 Cote-Rotie, Sereine Noire, two magnums 2006 Cote-Rotie, Sereine Noire, two magnums 2007 Cote-Rotie, Sereine Noire, one magnum 2006 Cote-Rotie, La Barbarine, three magnums 2007 Cote-Rotie, La Barbarine, two magnums Sold for $5,500
Lot 10: Long Shadow Vintners - Justin Vineyards Collaboration 50-50 blend of Columbia Valley, Washington and Paso Robles Syrah Winemakers John Duvall & Kevin Sass 10 cases Sold for $3,800
Lot 10A: Wines from the “Four Amigos” Yves, Cuilleron, Pierre Gaillard, Yves Gangloff & Francois Villard 2008 Condrieu, magnum 2008 Cornas, magnum 2007 Vin de Pays, 2 magnums 2008 Cote-Rotie, 2 magnums 2008 Saint Joseph, 2 magnums ...and more! Sold for $3,300
Lot 11: Alban Dinner for Four with Cellar-Selected Wines Dinner prepared by John Alban, Vicki Carroll and José Dahan (Et Voila Restaurant) 2004 Alban Roussanne, Edna Valley 2003 Linne Calodo, Stick and Stones 1999 Alban Grenache, Edna Valley 1998 Sine Qua Non, Hospice du Rhone Exclusive, Central Coast 1998 Chateau de Beaucastel, Chateauneuf du Pape 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape (Alban Family Cellar Selections) Sold for $5,500
Lot 12: Syndicat Tavel 14 different Tavel rosé producers, 1 bottle each Private tour of Tavel with Sandra Gay of Syndicat Tavel Sold for $2,600
Lot 13: Le Vins de Vienne 2007 Cote-Rotie Les Essartrailles, 3 magnums 2007 Saint Joseph, Les Archeveques, 3 magnums 2007 Taburnum Vin de Pays Collines Rhodaniennes, 3 magnums 2006 Hermitage Les Chirats de Saint Christophe, 3 magnums Sold for $3,000
Lot 14: Qupé 2008 Syrah Sonnie’s Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard, Edna Valley One 3-liter, two magnums, six 750ml Sold for $2,100
Lot 15: Domaine Yves Cuilleron 2007 Saint Joseph Rouge Les Serines, 6 magnums 2007 Cote-Rotie Terres Sombres, 6 magnums Sold for $6,000
Lot 16: Bonny Doon Vineyard Dinner for 12 with Randall Grahm at the Cellar Door Cafe with Library Wines 2008 Le Cigar Volant, 6 signed magnums plus 18 750ml bottles Sold for $3,000
Lot 17: Three Hundred Point Lot One magnum each of three Rhone wines that received 100 points from Wine Advocate 2007 Les Combe des Fours 2007 Deus Ex Machina 2007 Santus Santorum Sold for $4,500
Lot 18: Saxum Vineyards 2007 Saxum Bone Rock, James Berry Vineyard, 3-liter bottle Sold for $3,100
Lot 19: Miner Family Vineyards 2007 Odyssey Rhone Blend, 6 magnums 2008 Odyssey Rhone Blend, 6 magnums 2007 La Diligence Syrah, 6 magnums 2008 La Diligence Syrah, 6 magnums Sold for $3,800
Lot 20: Villa Creek Villa Creek Locavore Feast for Four with Cris and JoAnn Cherry Wines to include: 2001 Cellars Cacpanes Cabrida Falset 2002 Three for One, Cuilleron/Gangloff/Villard, Rhone Valley 2005 Alban Vineyards Lorraine, Edna Valley 2005 Clos Erasmus, Priorat 2007 Chateau de Saint Cosme, Valbelle, Gigondas 2006 Saxum 32 James Berry Vineyard 2006 Sine Qua Non Raven No. 1, Central Coast Plus two rooms at the hotel and a VIP barrel tour at the winery Sold for $3,900
Lot 21: L’Aventure Winery 2008 L’Aventure Estate Cuvée, magnum 2008 L’Aventure Cote a Cote, magnum 2008 L’Aventure Le Grand Vergot, magnum 2009 L’Aventure Roussanne Estate, magnum VIP Tour and Tasting for Six, including barrel tasting Sold for $2,100
Lot 22: Paul Lato Wines Winemaker Dinner for Six, seven courses prepared by Paul Lato Served with Paul Lato wines 2008 Syrah Bien Nacido, six 750ml bottles to take home Sold for $6,200
Lot 23: Eric Solomon Selections Priorat Experience for Four & Top of the Priorat Wine offering One night accommodations at the Cal Llop in Gratallops boutique hotel Dinner with Eric & Daphne Solomon at their home in Gratallops with wines from their cellar Vineyard tour of Priorat with the Solomons Cellar tour and barrel tasting at Clos Erasmus Cellar tour and tastings at other Priorat wineries (airfare not included) 2005 Closa Batllet Tinto, 750ml 2005 Bodegas Mas Alta La Creu Alta, 750ml 2006 Mas d’en Compte Planots, 750ml 2006 Mas Doix Costers de Vinyes Velles, 750ml 2007 Celler de l’Encastell Roquers de Porrera, 750ml 2007 Vinya del Vuit, 750ml Sold for $5,500
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I attended The California Cabernet Society2010 Passport to Cabernet tasting at the Bently Reserve building in San Francisco yesterday afternoon. There were 75 wineries pouring at least a couple of different Cabernet Sauvignon wines each. The majority of wineries were from the Napa Valley. However, there were also several from Sonoma County, a couple from Paso Robles and one each from Livermore Valley, Oakdale, Santa Ynez and Temecula.
The primary focus of this event was the pouring of barrel samples from the 2009 vintage. Most, but not all, wineries had some on hand. There were plenty of wines from the 2005, 2006 and 2007 vintages to try as well. There were very few 2008’s in the room.
Between the main tasting room and the very convenient press room, I was able to taste virtually every barrel sample available. [The press room was great. I virtually had it to myself. It was quiet, all the samples were lined up alphabetically, and I was able to go at my own pace without any jostling or distractions.] Even though I did taste them all, I don’t believe there’s much point in throwing out a long list of “ratings” for the barrel samples. I don’t think it would do you much good.
For a variety of reasons, barrel samples are not necessarily representative of products you might actually be able to buy or taste. All of the wines will be undergoing more barrel aging. Some were samples from particular blocks or vineyards that will go into a larger blend. Others were single varietal wines from multiple vineyards but will see the addition of other Bordeaux-varietal components before bottling. Some samples were fully blended, but taken from favorite barrels. [I’m sure they were all favorite barrels... why offer anything less under the circumstances?] So, rather than provide specifics on wines none of us will ever taste again, I’d like to provide some general observations.
There have been a lot questions about the 2009 vintage in Northern California and the impact of those heavy rains that hit us about the time of harvest. There were several concerns:
Would the rain result in big berries that were full of water that would create diluted wines?
Would the rain cause rot, some of which might find it’s way into the wines resulting in off flavors?
Would growers rush to pick before the rains even if the grapes were a little under-ripe?
Would those vineyards that were picked after everything had dried out wind up with over-ripe grapes?
What effect would all of these concerns have on yield?
Would Lassie get the serum through?
Most of these were valid concerns. I think we can probably put away our worry beads though. I’m happy to report that, at least for the wineries pouring yesterday, there wasn’t evidence of quality issues brought about by the rain. Of course, since these were “best barrel” offerings, it is possible, or even likely, that there are wines in other barrels that are less than optimal. However, that will be something for the winemakers and business people to work out as they make their decisions on quality vs. volume. It is clear to me that there can and should be some outstanding wines from the 2009 vintage.
Tasting a large number of barrel samples can be harsh. I have often wished for a spare tongue on such occasions. Happily, such was not the case yesterday. By and large, the wines were all pleasant on the palate. Certainly there was no shortage of tannins, but they were all resolving nicely. And none of the wines showed the harsh and unpleasant tannins that tend to come from grapes which haven’t reached phenolic ripeness. There were even a few wines that I would have been very happy to drink immediately. [I did restrain myself though.]
With regard to the non-barrel samples I tasted, I do have some tips and recommendations: Ashe Family Vineyards is just about to make their first-ever release. They are making a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wine from their estate vineyard in Oakville. This first release, called “Entre Nous” and from the 2007 vintage, is a very good wine and just 100 cases were made. They still have a few cases that have not been spoken for. If you want to be the first (perhaps only) person in your neighborhood to have some, act quickly. I highly recommend the wine and, if that’s not convincing, you should also know that the vineyard is managed by Jim Barbour and the wine made by Philippe Melka.
I have not previously had the opportunity to taste the wines from Carter Cellars in Calistoga. Yesterday, in addition to the barrel sample, they poured the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Coliseum Block (available on their web store for $125). It’s a wine of considerable depth and richness yet well-structured. I very highly recommend it.
If you would like to see what the Livermore Valley is capable of doing with Cabernet Sauvignon, I highly recommend the 2007 Steven Kent Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Clone 30 Ghielmetti Vineyard. Whether you want to surprise your friends at a blind tasting or just want a killer wine to enjoy over the next 12+ years, this is a good choice. Just four barrels were made and the wine’s sold only in 3 packs ($300 “retail,” $255 for club members.) Even if you don’t spring for this wine, Steven Kent Winery should definitely be on your short list of tasting rooms to visit in Livermore.
If you’re looking for a Napa Valley Cabernet that offers good bang for the buck (and who isn’t?), I recommend the 2006 Titus Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon for just $41. It will probably be best if you hold it for a couple of years, but will be very nice now with an hour or two of decanting.
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Hospice du Rhone 2010 has officially started and so far it's been a blast. The Rhone 'n Bowl evening is a great ice-breaker with nearly two hundred winemakers, grape growers, proprietors, writers, sommeliers, etc. get together to sip on a variety of Rhone-varietal wines and bowl badly. Rock and roll music is throbs in the alley, as will the heads of those who sample too frequently from the selection of wines available.
There were three different pouring stations with at least 30 wines at each. White wines, rosés and red wines representing from France, North America, Australia and South Africa were available for tasting. And, on top of all that, many of the attendees brought wines from their own collections to share. I wasn't able to take a note on every bottle I sampled, but I know that I tried at least one each from Cote-Rotie, St. Joseph, Hermitage and Costieres-de-Nimes, a South African Shiraz, Syrahs from Jonata, Buena Vista, Paloma and Kunin-Gangloff, and two Shiraz from the Barossa Valley's Torbreck. I started off with the Marsanne from Qupe. This assortment highlighted one of the things I like best about Rhone-varietal wines – the huge variety. There are so many grapes to choose from and use singly or blend. But, even if you use just a single variety such as Syrah, the various terroirs, winemaking techniques, vine ages and more still lead to a huge range of styles.
Of course most of the attendees have tasted thousands of such wines over the years. And this particular part of the conference is much more about friendship and having fun than it is analyzing wine. While the grapes and the people are spread around the world, Hospice du Rhone always gives them a forum to come together to rekindle friendships, make new ones. The conference has been the genesis of several new and significant collaborations over the years too. I mentioned to Rhone winemaker Yves Gangloff this evening that I had missed him last year; he'd been unable to attend. He told me that he'd just been too busy. Then he thought for a moment and said that he's actually too busy this year too, but he just couldn't stay away. Hospice du Rhone is that kind of event.
The main conference kicks off tomorrow morning at 9 o'clock Pacific Time. The first topic is South African Syrah. I'll be there and hope to tweet key points from that session, so stay tuned to #HdR2010.
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