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Wine of the Day
- Pinot Noir
- Written by Fred Swan
- Sunday, 09 September 2012 21:20
Like many Burgundian winegrowers, Jean-Charles Boisset believes strongly in sustainability and biodynamic viticulture. All of the vineyards owned by Boisset Family Estates in the United States, France and Canada are either certified-organic or on the way to being so. The Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards of Domaine de la Vougeraie are certified-biodynamic. As of February 2010, so is the 17-acre DeLoach estate vineyard which Boisset acquired in 2004.
2010 was a difficult year for grape-growers in most of California’s AVAs. The Russian River Valley was no different with chaotic weather patterns, described by Brian Maloney, director of winemaking for Boisset’s Sonoma wineries, as “very cool, then hot, then cool, then hot.” Inconveniently timed rain made matters worse. It was the kind of year that can test the resolve of natural and/or low-intervention growers.
DeLoach stayed the course with excellent results. Was it the extra attention they pay to their vines, the natural equilibrium of the biodynamic ecosystem or simply a lucky site? It’s impossible to know. I suspect all three were at work, along with very careful picking and sorting. In any case, nothing in this pretty wine suggests anything other than perfect berries.
The 2010 DeLoach Estate Pinot Noir is a feminine wine, yet packed with enticing flavors that evolve almost continually in the glass. It’s medium ruby in the glass with elegant red fruit, sandalwood, smoke, sweet spice and tangerine. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied with very fine tannins and noticeable acidity. The flavors of red cherry, brown spice, cola and brulée linger for a medium-plus finish. Drink now through 2018. Highly Recommended+.
2010 DeLoach Estate Pinot Noir
Rating: Highly Recommended+
Drink: now - 2018
Production: 375 cases
Retail Price: $50.00
Origin: DeLoach estate vineyard, Russian River Valley AVA, Demeter-certified biodynamic
Blend: 100% Pinot Noir, 60% clone 828, 40% Calera
Fermentation: Native yeast, separate fermentations for each clone
Aging: 100% French oak aged, 33% new, 14 months
Decanting: Not recommended
Temperature: 58º - 62º F
Food Pairings: Pork fried rice
The wine above was tasted at the winery.
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