Zinfandel is the wine most associated with the Sierra Foothills AVA. 40% of the red wine grapes planted in that region are Zinfandel. Cabernet Sauvignon is second in acreage at just 11%. Surprisingly, Syrah is a very close third with just 50 fewer acres under vine. And in Amador County, Syrah is the more popular with 219 acres vs. 193.

Growing conditions there are good for Syrah. It welcomes the hot days, yielding wines with fruity richness, but the much cooler evenings help it retain acidity. The wines also hang onto Syrah’s interesting side notes of black pepper and leather rather than turning into one-note jam.

Yorba has been growing wine grapes in their Shake Ridge Vineyard since 2003. In 2009, they planted another dozen acres to bring the total to 46. That sum is divided between Zinfandel, Syrah, Barbera and Tempranillo. Friday at the In Vino Unitas tasting, I tried their lineup of upcoming releases (2007 and 2008 vintages). I was pleased by the 2008 Barbera, 2007 Zinfandel and 2007 Syrah and would be happy to have a glass of any. However, I wasn’t able to focus enough on the wines to publish a review based on that tasting.

Yesterday though, the 2006 Yorba Shake Ridge Vineyards Syrah was poured as one of the example wines at the San Francisco Wine School class I taught on the Lake County and Sierra Foothills AVAs. Everyone enjoyed the wine at the class. I kidnapped the remaining, mostly-full bottle to taste carefully upon my return home.

Wine Review

The 2006 Yorba Syrah, just their second vintage, is concentrated, but not a bit gooey. It is opaque, a dark shade of purple at the core. There is just a very narrow rim of ruby-purple. The nose is interesting and inviting, but doesn’t jump out of the glass. Initial aromas are of black pepper, blackberry and dark plum. As it opens up, there is also leather, smoke and charcoal. The body is medium-plus, owing to the concentrated fruit and the alcohol. There are fine, powdery tannins of medium weight, almost fully integrated. Flavors include black cherry and plum, blackberry and dark chocolate with peppery sensations. Enjoy this wine with a couple slices of thick, artisanal bacon — with or without a burger underneath. Recommended.

2006 Yorba Syrah Shake Ridge Vineyards Amador County
Rating: Recommended

Drink: Now through 2014
Release Date: June, 2009
Closure: Natural Cork
Production: 250 cases
Retail Price: $32

Note: If you can’t find the 2006, the 2007 Yorba Shake Ridge Vineyard Syrah is very similar.

The next class in the San Francisco Wine School’s California Wine Appellation series will be on Sonoma County, taught by Maureen Downey. It’s Wednesday, February 1 at 6pm. You can register for the class or get more information online.

This wine reviewed above was purchased.

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